Since you already have a mould that casts a 0.442” bullet, and paper that others have used with success, I would advise casting some 16:1 alloy bullets and patching them with two wraps of the paper. The width of the paper should reach the start of the bullet ogive, with enough to fold around the base leaving maybe 50% of the lead exposed in the center.
Take one of them and see if you can push it through the bore with a stiff cleaning rod. It should go through the bore with a slight feeling of smooth, sort of “hydraulic,” resistance, and you should see marks from the tops of the rifling lands on the paper. If so, you should be good to go.
The dual diameter concept came out of the perceived need to fire paper-patched bullets in rifle chambers cut for grease groove bullets. With the case fireformed in the chamber, a straight sided bore diameter patched bullet falls out of the case mouth as easily as it goes in. The dual diameter bullet is a tight enough fit in the case to allow it to be inserted by hand without falling out again with normal handling. Plus, of course, it’s already groove diameter down there, so any obturation problems will be at least partially taken care of.
On the other hand, a straight-sided patched bullet of the proper diameter needs only a slight reduction of the case mouth to be held as securely as the dual diameter design. I accomplish this with a homemade mouth-reducing die, but it can also be done by taking the innards out of your FLS die and judiciously running the cartridge in until the case grips the bullet. (I haven’t found that those necksizing-only dies work well for this; usually about 25% of the bullets are still too loose in the cases.) if you use real black powder, your straight sided bullets will have no trouble obturating to the bottoms of the grooves on firing.
I have to admit that when I get a new gun, I simply load some standard rounds of the sort recommended in handbooks or other trusted sources, and go see how it shoots. If there’s a problem, then maybe it’s time to measure and check everything. But generally, modern rifles (including replicas) are built to very high standards of precision and reproducibility. I’m amazed at the number of posts I see on shooting sites where a new rifle or mould results in a flurry of measurements and experiments that only serve to “prove” the thing can’t possibly work without a lot of extra effort and expense before even one shot is fired. That way madness lies!