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fishoot
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Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Sep 21st, 2023 at 6:14pm
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I finished assembly of a rolling block I rebuilt but found the trigger was very hard to set at full cock.  It will set, but its way too hard.  What is the best way to ease the effort it takes to set the hammer?  For one, I imagine I could stone the trigger to reduce the length of the sear on the picture with a red arrow) that engages the hammer notch (see attached illustration with the red arrow indicating where).   Secondly I suppose I could stone the notch in the hammer the sear falls into when the hammer is drawn back to cock it (see the red circled area).  Am I correct in assuming one of these methods would let the hammer go to full cock with less effort?  Which method is advisable?  Undecided
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Reply #1 - Sep 21st, 2023 at 7:21pm
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It appears you're referring to a non set trigger, so the easiest way is to reduce mainspring strength. Too heavy will make cocking the hammer very hard, and could even result in pierced primers from a heavy strike.
I'd start by not taking too much off at first. Just rounding the corners of the mainspring, and then try it with just a primed case to ensure it strikes hard enough. If it needs more I use my belt sander to thing the thickest part of the spring, and keep a cup of water handy to cool it so it doesn't get too hot.
Once you've lightened a mainspring for a Roller it goes faster the next time. Just be careful not too get too carried away before trying it.
  

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rgchristensen
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Re: Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Reply #2 - Sep 21st, 2023 at 8:00pm
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The hammer spring on a RB has to be fairly stiff, because often the hammer has the drag of pushing the block closed "that last little bit".  Also, the hammer is necessarily heavy, so it takes a stiff spring to get it to move fairly fast.  Given that the hammer has to have a stiff spring, and since there are heavy forces at work, the hammer/sear engagement has to have a relatively large engagement surface.  By reducing the engagement, and modifying the engagement angle, one can achieve a fairly crisp 3# trigger.  HOWEVER, the steel of the hammer and trigger will not withstand the high engagement pressures they will then encounter, so one usually ends up with short parts life-time.  Modifying the engagement surfaces requires employment of suitable jigs and fixtures.

Some of the late smokeless military actions have unnecessarily stiff hammer springs, in the interest of reliability-of-fire under adverse conditions, and these springs can be relieved quite a a bit. This is the only modification I'd recommend.  These actions also require considerable parts modifications to make them suitable for use with rimmed-case ammo.

CHRIS
  
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ssdave
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Re: Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Reply #3 - Sep 21st, 2023 at 8:08pm
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I would only lighten the main spring as a last resort.  That way is full of potential side effects, and is not likely the cause anyway.

The very first thing I would check for is the mainspring hitting the cross screw that holds the trigger guard on.  If you take the buttstock off, and look in from the back with a good light, you may be able to see if that is happening.  If it is, the effect is that the hammer has to bend the last 1/2 inch of the spring, not the whole spring, so it makes the spring appear harder than it is.  This is caused by the main spring not having quite the right curvature, and can't be corrected in the spring easily.  (or too long a trigger nose) If you have spare parts, I'd try several springs and see if one works.  That would be the definitive diagnosis there of a bad spring.

I've often seen this problem corrected by grinding away about 1/2 of the cross screw diameter in the area that the spring hits.  By carefully marking the top side with the screw tightened, you can determine which part to grind away.  A more elegant solution would be to convert to two screws, like a sporter action has.  That would of course require modifying the receiver and the trigger guard assembly.

Another thing to try is a shorter trigger.  If you have spare parts, again try switching them out.  If a shorter trigger fixes the problem, the original can be shortened, but it will then need to be re-case hardened to work correctly when you're done.

Good luck!
  
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Zack T
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Re: Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Reply #4 - Sep 22nd, 2023 at 12:23am
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The picture you show is of a plain not single set trigger. Look around for Lee Shavers article on trigger sear engagement (google it) and think about it a lot before you grind on anything. Or send it to Curt Hardcastle. He does an excellent RB trigger.  If you have a rolling block with a single set trigger id stick with shooting it unset. Ive always found them to be fussy, inconsistent and unreliable for long use. I base this on owning several but Im sure many people will chime in with how wonderful their single set triggers are on their rolling blocks so best of luck
  
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fishoot
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Re: Rolling Block trigger hard to set
Reply #5 - Sep 22nd, 2023 at 11:23am
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SSDave was right.  The mainspring in the gun was chrome plated and much thicker, especially at the end that rubs the base of the hammer.  The spring was  contacting the rear trigger guard screw when being cocked.  I put another spring in the rifle and Voila!  It now cocks MUCH easier.  I guess I'll use the spring for making a bowie knife, lol...   Thanks SSDave!   Thanks also to the other gentlemen that offered possible cures.  Wink
  
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