I see a lot of complaints on here about high wall trigger pull.  I've never really looked at them critically, but have done "as I go" work on them till they're acceptable.

I sent out my wifes high wall recently to be color cased.  When I put the trigger back in, something had warped or changed slightly, and it dragged.  So, needed to do something.

I disassembled the pieces, and decided I'd go through them systematically.  The pins were pretty crude, but seemed to fit okay, so I left them as is.  The sides of the tang had some roughness and burs, so that was a first step.

I'd worked over this trigger a bit before, but what has changed for me now is I now have a few hundred slip stones from the mold making machine shop I bought out.  For this job, I picked a 600 grit white 1/2" wide stone about 1/8" thick.  I also used a red 200 grit for taking off rough stuff.

I cleaned up the inside of the tang of burs, and polished the high spots with 600.  Didn't get into the case much, as having the surface hard is the least friction.  I then worked over the trigger, and smoothed the sides and the cam surface, and beveled every edge and corner slightly so they won't gouge or drag.  Did the same for the knock off, and carefully squared the sear surface.

One of the worst offenders was the thin trigger spring.  It was rough and "sticky" due to black oxide surface from the hardening.  I smoothed it to slick, carefully doing all polishing lengthwise.  Then, rounded all edges and corners.

Put it all back together, and it has a 1 1/4 pound pull.  It has a long easy takeup like a double stage trigger, and then when it hits the actual sear pull, zero additional movement and crisp letoff.  Pounded on it every direction with a rubber deadblow, and it won't accidentally release.

I'm very happy with it.  Just took some attention to detail to get there.  I could in theory improve it slightly by reaming the pin holes to uniform diameter and using hardened steel pins, but with where it ended up, not worth the bother.