Steve I saw a barreled action at a Las Vegas show in 240 had a safety. Perhaps it is the same one. I also made a sketch of the safety. I will try to find it and get your copy Greg.

Opps! Didn't notice second page.

The breechblock that came with the set was cast with the intent of a centerfire firing pin.  My intent with this build is a 22rf.  I looked at a few options to rectify this and didn’t like any my ideas, so I opted the easiest – for me - I made a new breech block.  The original design uses an angled firing pin - I’m not fond of an angled firing pin.  I’ve had some successes in previous actions putting the firing pin in straight and using a transfer bar.  The thoughts for this one are still getting tossed around.  The material for the breech block was a piece of HT/stress relieved 4140, tough but pleasant to work.

The breech block has an interesting relationship to the lever – it’s saddled to the lever and this keeps the breech face aligned to axis of the action, the barrel face does also, but if the tolerances are kept close the barrel to breech block faces can have some clearances to operate.  The relationship between the block and lever were kept to a minimum – slot to lever has a running fit of about .004”.   
The cut for the hammer in the breech block was an interesting setup.  It needed to be square to the lever slot, but the angle calculated out to be 35° from vertical and the lever clearance slot came out to be 45°.   I was lazy in this setup, I have an ultra-precise rotary table and precision vises that would have made this setup simple but I chose to spend time fiddling and measuring, and repeating until it sat in the standard vise correct.
If you notice the paper between the part and the vise jaws, paper compresses a very slight amount (to make up for inconsistencies of the part) when clamped and if it's slightly damp (with WD or toluene) it'll work like a glue. (a 2¢ tip)

Thanks GT,
Got a good laugh about your smurf process comments!! Still laughing...
JP

Moving around like I do on these builds, went back to the breech block.  The slots and screws for attaching the block to the lever was the next issue addressed.  The Webley uses a slot on each side of the block for the point of attachment, studying the photos shows the slot being somewhat lengthy and had to ask, does it need to be?  The lever follows an arc in its operation, pivoting from a screw on the end.  Converting this arc motion to a straight line taking into account the angle the breech block sits at was a simple drawing.  The results – it didn’t take much of a slot for the length of motion in my action’s cycle.  The screw threads I used at this attachment is #8-32 or a major of .165”.  I chose to give this slot the travel of nearly this diameter, plus a little extra on each side for a head diameter - .020.  The slot width was made .185”.  Keeping these dimensions close, especially the slot width, minimizes the block “wiggle room” vertically, time will tell upon firing if there really is any advantage.  In Wal’s book, it was mentioned that this was an area of problem in the design.  Considerable torque is made at this point and over time the screws can work loose and the threads are abused.  Going oversize isn’t an option because of the placement.  I concentrated on the fitment of the screws to threads and in final assembly will use a retaining compound to make this a more permanent feature.  Thinking hardening the threaded hole area too.

The one that I copied was a 300 Sherwood. Attached are tracings of the Checkering pattern. Note that there was no butt plate used but straight Checkering in the middle area of the butt stock. The form arm was checkered also.

Thanks Rodney, I've handled one that the butt stock was continuous, no plate, just checkered the wood on the end.  There was even a line carved around making it look like a plate had been added.  I like the punishment - have some horn that may make the plate on mine.