Here is a picture of the transfer bar in it's final configuration.  The slight cut out in the breech block, left of the bar, is for hammer clearance and fitting and getting the hammer into the frame.

The last couple photos are of how the hammer acts against the transfer bar.

Have a great Christmas everyone!
Bob

I agree, just amazing! Not being a machinist I am really enjoying this thread.

bob, great job. i have really enjoyed watching the progress and the conversations we have had but i see gregs influence on you(the rubber band ).  tony<><

This picture shows getting the trigger spring made and fitted to the frame and trigger.  I cut this from a chunk of 1080 steel, ground it to the thickness I needed, then hardened and tempered after the fitting and shaping. I hardened by heating to red and quenched in oil.  To temper, this is a small thin spring so I polished and reheated to a dark straw color and quenched in oil again, repolished and called it done.

The tail of three springs!

The first spring did need a replacement made, not only was it a bit weak but it broke right where I was concerned it would, at the end of the cut slot.  Made about 10 cycles of the hammer.

First photo....So, the second spring was made a little differently with the slot farther forward.  I was thinking the spring would not be stressed as much with the end of the slot moved forward out of that high stress area. But, it broke before I even got it compressed in the gun.  The break was about 3/8th inch in front of the end of the slot.  I am suspecting a stress point, or I missed on the tempering.  I'm believing it was a stress point more than the tempering because it was hard to get in that area to clean up the saw marks and polish the spring.  Even though it was tough to get into, I thought it was polished very well but still could have been a small saw mark I couldn't see.

Second photo...I used 1080 steel for the first two spring and basically machined them from solid bar stock.  This third spring was made from a piece of 1075 steel that was 1/8th inch thick.  As can be seen I folded this over on its self, forming the spring.  Before folding, the steel was polished so I did not need to get into that tight area after the bending.  This spring heat treated and tempered nicely.  Was a little bit of a battle getting it into the frame and was too strong.  I wanted it strong to start and then planned to thin it in order to get what I wanted. I cycled it several times and believed I had it working. This is where I ended yesterday, leaving the spring in the frame.

Third photo....I left it in the full cock position for the night.  Unlocked the shop this morning and checked it, before having my morning coffee, and it was broke as seen in the picture.

Needless to say it was a bit disappointing!  Took today and probably a couple more off from this gun.   

Still had a good day though!  Got the little rook rifle shooting.  It's chambered in 300 rook and I need to figure out how to get loads working in it and I got that all worked out and test fired.   
This rook is going to be a fun little gun!
Bob

You have my sympathy, bobw.  I’ve never found the hardening and tempering of springs the walk in the park so often described in gunsmithing books or articles.

Maybe it’s because I burn off the quenching oil in the hubcap of a ‘48 Dodge rather than a ‘36 Ford, but my score seems steady at two wet noodles and one broken one for every usable one.

This is a great thread, nonetheless.

Bob, feel your pain. The oil burn tempering technique has never worked for me. Large springs come out too hard and small springs too soft.
Generally use the fertilizer nitre blue pot heated to 700°F per the lead thermometer. Large springs get 20-30 minutes.
Want the springs to yield before they break. Lead pot might work if you keep it submerged but never tried it for larger springs.
Chuck

Should note that I normally use O-1 tool steel (about 1095) for mainsprings.
Chuck