I have been procrastinating on making the lever pin since the lever was made, mostly because I am not sure what the stop will look like.  By stop I mean the spring loaded plunger that is part of the wood forearm.  The pin is actually retained by a slot in the frame and a flange on the pin, the plunger just stops the pin from rotating out of the locked position.  I machined the slot in the frame when the pin hole was originally drilled and reamed.   

So, here we go on the pin starting with photo 1.  This is showing offset turning of the pin.  The pin and flange can be seen and the flange is .040 thick.  The offset solid portion, in the chuck jaws, will become the lever.

Photo 2.  Here's the lever assembly after chopping it off the larger chunk of steel.

Photo 3.  And here the pin is in the frame.  Most of the flange needs to be removed before it will go fully not position.  The flange and frame slot can be seen here.  The frame slot onlyd goes a short distance into the frame.  The end of the slot stops the pin from rotating counter clockwise.

Photo 4. Here the lever is rough shaped and will be finished with files.  Once I got this rough shape I could mark where the flange needed to be removed for fitting to the frame.

Photo 5.  And here shows it actually fit...somewhat!

It's been many years since I played with a Sharps, but I'm pretty sure you didn't have to remove the forearm to remove the lever pin.  Plus having to do so would surely have annoyed any user bent on cleaning the action considerably. Last, a photo of the original percussion model locking pin is available at (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links); just search for "1859/1863 Sharps hinge pin".

Bill Lawrence

A follow up on the wood interfering with the pin removal.  

This picture is the forearm portion relief cut out, which is required because I wanted to cover the extractor projection on the lever.  Red arrow is what I'm referring to and that the wood is really thin because of this.

I ended up somewhat reshaping the wood and then making a small relief in the side of the forearm for the pin to clear, unless you look for it it won't be seen.
Bob

WOW, takes ones breath away, and especially thanks for the time to record it all for us mortals.  Krag

You have amazing craftsmanship abilities Bobw! Such a pleasure to watch the progression.

Thanks guys!
jhm,  just find a chunk of walnut and start picking away at it.  That’s what I do, and eventually something that works shows up!

Some ramblings about what I don’t like.
One thing on this gun that has and still does bug me, is the hammer.  On the original gun the hammer face strikes a percussion nipple and set at less of an angle from horizontal than my gun.  The hammer face on this gun is at a much steeper angle in order to hit the transfer bar for the firing pin.  This angle, combined with the round breech block and the rectangular frame in this area, makes for a fairly tight area for the hammer to get to the transfer bar.  So, I made this hammer taller with a longer nose thinking this was the way to accomplish this.   

Also on the original, the hammer body, below the head, seems to me, too large compared to the frame size.  So, I have tried to streamline this area somewhat.  I think I went to far and made it almost spindly looking.

So, I have been having a really good conversation privately with another member about this hammer.  While the hammer is quite usable as it is, I think I’m going to make a different hammer, trying to incorporating changes to the features that I don’t really care for.   

These being, a change to the body, below the hammer head, making it appear more robust but still not overwhelming the frame.  Then, shortening the hammer nose and lowering the head so that is sits down tighter to the frame.   

I want the hammer to strike the transfer bar at the bottom on first contact rolling up to full contact by the time the bar is stopped by the breech block.  I wanted, and have, this because the heaviest structure of the transfer bar is at the bottom, I don’t know at this point if these last changes can be accomplished because of this.  We will see how or if these changes work out.
Bob

Thanks Bill.

Since this gun will need sights, I decided to go with something that looks like the original.  There are at least a couple versions of original rear sights on these guns.  One has a tube or hood and the other an unusual adjustable style.  This later style I did find as used, but unfortunately someone had cut the ears down so the sighting notch was really low.  This first photo show an original of the adjustable style that I decided to try making.  I will probably drill the barrel for scope bases even thought it will have sights, it's easier for me to shoot them with a scope.

In this second photo I'm machining both main parts of the sight at the same time.  Since they are the same width I cut them from the same chunk of steel.  The part being machined is the base that will get the radius and adjusting notches in its back surface, it also will have the dovetail used to mount the sight.  On the right is the adjustable part of the sight.

The third photo shows machining the angled sighting portion of the sight.

And in the fourth I'm finishing up the angle and thinning the area in front of the notch.
Bob