In this first photo I have laid out the lines indicating the size of the tip and then hand drawn it on the steel.  Then machined the excess metal to the tab line and thickness of the tip I want in the end.  The tab is shown in the drawing.  There is extra steel, allowing for holding while machining.

In the second photo I have removed and rough shaped the top of the the tip.  It will be much easier to finish the final profile once the the tip is fully rounded and matching with the wood.

The third photo shows I have machined the barrel channel in the tip.  Machined to an undersized dimension and starting the fitting of the tip to the barrel profile.  This channel is machined to within .008 of the final barrel diameter and the fitting is done with prussian blue, files and paper.

Photo 4 shows the progress of fitting the tip.  The barrel is tapered so the the tip is also tapered while fitting.

5, the tip is done with the fitting to the barrel, and I have machined, and filed in, the rough lower profile.

I'm now in the process of fitting the tip to the wood and will continue with that later.
Bob

Once the fitting was complete and after grinding (photo 1), then filing to get to the rough shape, I don't think it fits too bad, last 4 photos.

All this making, shaping and fitting, when reading it, seems to go real smooth. But, that's not always the case!   When I got the tip on the wood, the tip was dragging on the right side of the barrel and had a pretty good gap on the left.  Appears when fitting the tip, while off the wood, it was slightly canted to the right.  I ended up refitting the tip, while fastened to the wood, so the forearm was down against the barrel.  But, I still had the gap on the left side.  Good thing metal can be formed.  I set the tip on my anvil and lightly taped the left side down until it could be refit.
Bob

The forearm is now rough shaped, is all that is left is some fine rasp work and sanding.  Now I can move back to the stock and start getting it also fully shaped.
Bob

All I can add is WOW! The rifle is really shaping up into a very classic piece!

Wow, nice wood! Like the wood and the rifle a lot! That will be a hoot to shoot!o

In this first and second picture are the rough milled cap box.  I just pick away at it, milling up close to the line until it was finished. 

The third and fourth picture are the nearly finished box, front and back.  I say nearly finished because I still need the slot that the lid will pivot through.  I'm waiting on machining the slot until the lid is completed.  I can then fit them together.  I used files to to cleanup, shape and finish  the outside of the box.

The last picture is the box set on the stock so you can see approximately where it goes.
Bob

Thanks Dave.

Got going on the cap box lid today.

This first picture shows finding the center of the lid while setup on the rotary table. Before this, I had found both edges, using the mill, located  the center of the lid, and then made a very light mark.  This mark is what I'm lining up on in this picture.  The tool I'm using is a center finder.  It's hard to see, but it breaks just above the cone, if things aren't lined up.  After the rotary table is center over the spindle I set the sharp point in the previously made mark.  Then just move the part on the table until I can't catch a finger nail on an offset edge.  Much easier to do than explain!

Second photo. Once the center was found I machined the radius of the lid, stopping at each side of the pivot extension. One clamp is removed for the picture, a single clamp would never hold the part in place.

Photo 3, The pivot extension is shaped now.  I did not get pictures but after this the lid went back on the rotary table, then the back, or bottom, of the lid was cut down reducing the thickness of the lid to the same as the body, leaving the pivot extension full thickness.

The last two photo are both parts finished except for the final fitting together.   
Now I just need to figure out how to do that!
Bob