The head on that screw is really bothering me!

For what little it's probably worth, it bothers me too, for it seems to overpower the cap.  Too big or maybe just too thick?

In any case, not only could I not have written better comments than Greg did, but his mean so very much, coming as they do from someone who is also supremely talented in the same ways.

In short, keep detailing your great builds for us!

Bill Lawrence

Continuing with the wood.  After finishing the stock profile I went ahead and thinned it down to a bit over a 1/16 inch of the final size at the butt plate on both sides, making it fairly flat all the way to the grip.

The first photo shows this work being done.  In order to do this I usually work with a drawknife, wood plane or very course rasp.  I started with the drawknife but the wood was just too crazy.  So, I went to the wood plane, it work somewhat.  But, ended up using the rasp for most of the work.  It cuts very quickly but take lots of work to push....with frequent breaks!  But even with the breaks it only took 15-20 minutes on each side.  Also note the centering line on the bottom of the stock and the line showing the grip cap placement.

Second photo shows the layout lines for the top of the stock.

Third photo shows the complete roughed out profile which should be  close to the drawing as shown in an earlier post.  The center layout line seen here was incorrect and has now been moved lower at the front and rear.

4, I like to start at the top and front of the grip and start rough shaping it, then moving back, getting the wood shaped behind the grip to the the butt plate.

5. The transition between the rear of the stock and the grip is always the tough part for me.  So, once I get the front and top of the grip sized down, along with the wood to the rear of the grip, I start developing the transition.  In this photo I have just started removing the bulk of the wood to the rear of the grip.  The layout lines are important in order to keep things where I want them as I work.

This might seem pretty straight forward, and it mostly is, but as the wood gets worked down closer to the final shape I will make small changes in order to keep things in the proper perspective..... in my perspective anyway!
Bob

Could you make, and use, a hard metal piece with the identical outline as the grip cap? I have done a bit of shaping around buttplates, but they aren't as delicate as the form of your grip cap. I like this job- at first I wasn't sure, but it really grew on me.   

Bob, about your cap screw, I wonder if that long screw slot affects it's look.  Maybe a dished slot for a Lincoln penny?  Or knurled?  Just cogitating.
Really like your build!

Regards,
Joe

Joe, you are thinking exactly what I have decided to do.   
I will make another, thinner but still with a radius around the edge, and a slot cut just on to inside as a tight radius in order to get some depth with out getting to the edge.

The plan is, and has been from the start, to add a rope pattern to the edge of this screw, the cap edge and the ring between the barrel and the frame.
Bob

LRF, Yes sir.  Both guns were there for my benefit.  Since I’ve been building from measurement from three different guns (these are two of them), I want to see how close I was and Tony was good enough to drag them to the show for me.  I’ll post pictures tomorrow.  There was also an original #7 rolling block on the table.  
Did you have a chance to talk with the guys at the table?  It was Greg and Tony’s table, I loafed around with them most of the day, but was off, for a couple hours, looking the show over.  Had both my Sharps pistol rifle build and the Remington #7 there, the one posted here and also now in the Journal.  Greg also had several of his builds along.  Met moodholler and another gent from Minneapolis (but sorry don’t remember his name now).
Bob

So cool!

Amazing Bob ... simply amazing!

You are a very talented and patient gunmaker.