Got started on adding the wood to the frame.  This is an unusual stocking for me because both tangs are attach to the frame and not removable.  In addition, the front tang extended to the read forming the bottom of the grip.  This extension creates an issue with inletting from the stand point of the depth in the wood it needs to get to, the deeper a part is inlet the more chance of removing/damaging wood and loosing the good final fit that shows.  My plan was inlet the top tang straight in and let the lower just follow it in. This seems to be working but it is tough to get a good tight fit of wood to metal.

First and second pictures show the beginning and the progress.  To make things tougher, this wood is difficult to work because of the crazy grain.  You need to make every cut in the correct direction or it will chip out.  It  reminds me of a piece of curly maple the way it works.

Third picture show the frame has contacted the head of the wood.  Note the inletting black.

The last two show the frame against the head of the stock.  Have an 1/8th inch to go.  This 1/8th inch is where the wood tenons are formed and fitted into the back of the frame and at the same time the wood is also fitted against the back of frame.
Bob

These next two are the frame in its final place and fit against the wood.
Bob

Continuing with making the butt plate.

After getting the general shape of the plate laid out, I started picking away at it in the mill roughing out the shape.  Photo 1

The second photo is the finished, roughed out plate.  Since I manually run the mill, I machine in close then push up to the lines.  Anyone who has run a mill with backlash knows you better do this machining in the correct direction or things go south fast and you end up with a broken end mill at best, damaged scrap part is the worst.  Although, even when you are paying attention things go wrong, I broke an end mill earlier when working on the wide rear face while roughing out the shape.  Got into a pinched situation and the mill did not like it, luckily the plate wasn't damaged.

The third photo shows the forward extension is now laid out.  I have also started shaping the top of the plate around to the sides, using files.  But, what I was really wanting to show here is the shaping of the inside radius of the corner.  You can see I have connected the side to the forward extension.  When making something like this plate, you need to be thinking constantly about fitting it to the wood.  This radius, as shown, is straight up and down.  In order to fit to the wood this needs to be angled more toward the center.  If not done correctly there will be a very thin edge of wood here that would be very fragile. 

In this fourth photo you can see the shaping of the radius versus the other side, which just has the layout line showing and has not been shaped yet.

5. Once the side radius's were complete, I then completed the balance of the extension.  Back in the mill, and since it's a tapered extension, I roughed it out the best I could by picking away at it.  It will be finished with files
Bob

Photo 1, Starting the shaping the sides of the plate.  This is where a layout, like this center line, helps.  By working to or away from this center line the top of the extension will stay straight and clean looking.

The second photo shows what the side looks like after a few minutes with a file.

In this third photo the right side is filed to shape, the left side has not been touched.  On the left side can be seen a layout line, toward the center of the side, which indicates the width of the plate.  Then at the top, hard to see, there is a line forming the shape there.

4.  I've started shaping the top radius of the plate.  The width line is still visible, along with the rough surface from the mill work.

5.  The plate is mostly shaped.  It will still need some tweaking, but for the most part it is done.
Bob

Photo 1, The center line is reestablished for shaping the plates rear surface.

Photo 2, if you look close, the side layout line is established, thick at the top and thin at the bottom.  I have also started shaping at the top.

3. Now can be seen what the side of the plate profile looks like.  While shaping this profile I keep the file at a high angle and just shaping to this line without working toward the center of the plate.  I finished both side before moving to the next step.

4. Now I'm tapering and thinning from the edge to the center line. Shaping a butt plate like this, you end up with the strength from the thick center section but the look of a much lighter plate when looking at it from the side.
Bob

These  photos show getting the tang screws in place.  The back is a wood screw but, the front is a machine style screw that connect to the lower tang.  I make both screws with head the way I like them.

Sorry I didn't take photo while setting up the front screw.   When drilling the hole through the wood, I had to hit a blind hole that does not come through the bottom of the lower tang.  So in the mill, the holes were lined up with the wood removed.  I held the screw in a collet and adjusted the frame until the screw would turn freely into the lower tang, through he upper.  Once this was done the wood was reinstalled and the hole drilled.  Worked perfect.

At this point both screw heads are left long and will be trimmed and timed later.
Bob

I also got a little bit of a start on the forearm.  I used the mill as a router and plowed out the start of the channel for the barrel.  I measure the barrel at the small or front where the forearm will end and cut the channel just under that size.  It will be inlet by hand from here.

First photo is the mill setup.  I'm using a router bit here.

Second shows the fit to the barrel.
Bob