This is an incomplete project, but I have been promising a few people I would post it, so here it is in it's incomplete state.

I have a number of semi-shaped Ballard buttstocks.  I'm not a traditionalist, and my thoughts of what makes a usable rifle differ a bit from the original Marlin Ballard stock layout.  Unfortunately, the blanks were shaped to more or less original configuration.  Fortunately, for me to be able to modify them, they weren't drilled for the through bolt.   Or unfortunately, as that's a bit difficult to do, but perfectly achievable with a bit of effort.

I'll start by illustrating how I want the stock to fit.  My intention is to raise the comb a bit, and make it parallel to the bore.  The original slopes downward at about 15 degrees, more or less parallel to the ballard receiver.  

Here's an original angle stock overlaid on the angle I think it should be:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

I want the top of the comb to be parallel to the barrel, use a straight edge to lay it out behind the receiver, to that angle: (this picture is out of sequence, actually after I've drilled the stock and cut the front to the angle to match the receiver).
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

I mark the through bolt location at the receiver end, and the butt end.  The butt end location drops about 3 inches from the factory ballard location, because of the angle change.  Set up the lathe, with a dead center on one end, and use a series of center drill, short drill, and finally long drill to do the through bolt hole.  This is the easy way to make it come out in the right location at both ends: (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

After the small hole is drilled, I use a series of larger drill bits to drill out the tang end, then use a MT2 reamer to do the taper, and then finish inletting to tang shape by hand:
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

With it down to shape, I need to inlet it.  I tighten the through bolt, tap the butt with a rubber mallet, and that gives me an inlet line to start cutting the shoulder that fits inside the Ballard receiver.  After it's started fitting into the recess, I use inletting black on the receiver, and remove high spots until the inlet is complete:
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

I also want it to be a bit better shaped cheekpiece, and with a shadow line, so I lay that out with a pencil and cut with chisels to shape, and smooth a bit with a rattail rasp and a flat file:
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Here is a picture of how the bottom of the stock aligns with receiver when it is finished:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

And the rough fit stock compared to a rough shaped one:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

The point of this post is that you don't have to live with pre-shaped stocks, you can modify to fit to accomplish what you want.   

LOL!!!  Yeah, it always looks easy in pictures when someone else is doing it. I know better. My biggest problem is I stop sanding too soon. Don't get rid of all the little scratches. But I keep trying.

Nice work Dave!  Looking at the starting stock I wouldn’t have though you could this.  Going to be nice when you are done.
Bob

Do you drill the bolt hole from one end only?  I have heard stories of the long bit wandering off center.

I have a HW stock to drill

Thanks

Jack

Nice AJ, 
I'll keep that in mind as I see spade bits at the local pawn stores in the hand tool bins for dirt cheap.

JP

very nice work sir, thanks for posting

Good work Dave.I need to maybe use a chizel more...I seem to rasp and be on the safe side. A pic of my small boring lathe,Use deep bore bits,you need a guide to start the 1" bit then it goes straight