Since we are more into discussing 'smithing issues with this rifle, I am taking the thread from Collecting Single Shot Rifles to the Gunsmithing section.

Regarding the excessive depth of the rim recess, it looks to be about 15-18 thousand.   

As is mentioned in a previous post, I have a so-so 32-40 barrel that I replaced on my other Ballard that I have been thinking about trying some larger diameter bullets in to see if it will shoot more consistently than it did when I first was using it.  I am going to see if I can remove the 38-55 barrel and install the 32-40 and at the same time see how the 30-30 Wesson indexes.

All this fooling around keeps me off the streets.

Jack

John,

I enjoy the challenge but don't always have the skills.  The 32-40 barrel lacks 1/2 a turn to clock up and I think I can get it to fit with a bit of lathe work.  I will have to take 25 thousand or so off the back end of the barrel and recut the rim recess at least if not the chamber.  I do have a 23-40 reamer.
The 30-30 Wesson barrel clock up perfectly and the forend even fits perfectly.  I will have to find an extractor and fit it.  Now I have 5 choices.
1. 38-55 as is with new firing pin
2. 32-40 bbl machined and reamed
3. 30-30 Wesson barrel with extractor fit
4. Rework 38-55 barrel to eliminate the rim recess excess
5 Shoot it in 38-55 as is

Jack

Just goes to show you that there is more than one way to skin a cat.   

Jack

" Jack, a friend had this challenge with a new barrel and solved it by cutting a larger recess and filling it with a soldered in over depth brass ring and recutting the rim recess in the ring to the correct depth. Worked out fine. " 

What about the taper in the case itself did he also correct for it? If not what would happen to the un-tapered area probably in the area of the web or possibly even beyond it. Does one think it would still remain the same or to possibly start a separation of the unsupported area of the case over time or possibly causing other unknown issues. In short is this actually the way one would have a gunsmith to do it for yourself and then to hand it down to somebody else? Or more importantly you having unknowingly purchased it for yourself.

Over thinking it, John. It was a straight case and the brass insert was hardly thicker in the barrel than the original rim (certainly no thicker than the web) and, he had the reamer.

The new pin has been installed and as I suspected is considerably shorter than pictured.  It does not drag on an unfired case but, at least with just a primer, it drags on the primer that has backed out just slightly.  I will fire it a bit as is but don’t expect any major issues.  I doubt I will leave this rifle as a 38-55 with barrel anyway. 

Jack

LD1,  Good suggestion.  I have a 32-40 reamer that could cut the rim recess.

Jack

John, he said put some lube on the face of the breechblock so the JB Weld wouldn't stick to it.