Going to have to trim the straight section off the Ballard design and tweak the sliding extractor a little but it should be good.  One of my peers asked if I was going to do the Freund camming breech block for the 22?  Why not?  Freund had a good idea here, from the one I’ve been working on, the action closes and locks like a vault, if it’s set perfectly square to the chamber and bore is there anything better?  I know it’s a side hammer thing, doesn’t have the lock time of the striker Ballard but still an interesting object.  (I picked up a striker Sharps ’74 a short while ago but studying it, I’m going to leave my striker ambitions to just the Ballards).   
In jest, this build is getting tweaked as I see fit, not that I'm poking fun at Sharps or Ballard or Winchester but, because I can it's getting features from all of them to keep it interesting.   Like Winchester CC triggers, maybe a lever similar to the high wall, a stock with features like those found on a Ballard with that tang and through bolt...  I'll try to update as I proceed and find time to post.

Looks Good,  Keep those pictures coming 
LD1

Greg,

A really interesting project. But I have to ask, why is there a penny sitting on the muzzle end of the barrel?

JerryH

It's a muzzle cap fits in the recess in the barrel 
LD1

The mortice on this action cleaned up fairly well in the slotter, a little work with a file and then touch it with a cast iron lap and it should smooth out nicely.  I’m still experimenting with the angle of the wedge for the camming breech block.  For the center fire action I’m building the entry angle of the breech block at about 3°.  I don’t think the 22 needs that much but I’m going to leave it at that.  The entry radius on the wedge is about .250” and that could be considerably less but because some of my projects seem to change mid-stream, I’m leaving that alone also.   Machining the wedge and block gave me more problems this time around.  The first set I did for the ’74 - I hit first time, a few strokes to blend the radius’s and everything matched up perfect, couldn’t see daylight when they went together.  This one, I chased the angles, then the flats, then the radius – had to lap things to get a good fit, sometimes a guy is lucky and sometimes he misses the boat completely.

Bob,
For cutting the radius I used a flycutter in the mill.  The shaper does it ok but not quite as fast of a setup and I'd have to grind some HSS bits, I always have some brazed carbide around one of the lathes that is either ground for a radius or suffered a crash and doesn't take much to make a radius tool...
For coarse lapping I use Clover brand usually in a medium grit, (valve lapping cpd is generally quite coarse) and Kingsford Charcoal fluid for a medium on my lapping table, or between the parts.  To get a finer finish, I use a diamond compound (an assortment off eBay) to get a high finish, flat surface, use a piece of aluminum foil folded over a small granite surface - again with Kingsford as a medium.  I do this once the mating parts fit up nice- the diamond compound removes very little but will take surfaces to a mirror finish.  I salvage cast iron everytime I see it and machine it to make laps - for mortises, bores, radius's etc. saves time trying to get a high, even or uniform finish with emery paper.  I'll score the cast iron with the corner of a file to give me grooves for the compound and fluid.  I'll share pictures of some of the laps -later.  Attached a couple of photos of my stationary table and a small cheapo granite surface wrapped in foil working a Ballard block to a high finish.

Sure would like to come hang out in your shop for a while...



JMH