Thoughts on cleaning up rough (galled) threads on original hiwall receiver other than a .935 x 16 tap that I don't have

Price of a tap isn't too bad:  

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All though not doable by some it can also be done by indicating in a lathe and the threads being chased. Joe Fieldman's approach is differently one that I will try in the future and thank him for sharing it.

Once but that also begs to ask the question have others faced off the front of their action to be square with the threads and something I have not heard being talked about on this site over the past seventeen years.

Keep in mind Barry Darr was still living with myself and the  family. I could not have figured out how to exactly go about it prior to that time. I was pretty much self taught until he arrived here and over those two years plus he was staying here is when I learned more than I ever knew prior too including making cherries and cutting my own moulds and et all that I now know how to go about doing myself.

I haven't chucked an Action in a Lathe to chase the threads or square the face yet.....  Thinking a Pot Chuck, Low Temperature Alloy and a 4 Jaw.
I usually make a Stub Barrel to spot in the face.  A file for the rough work, a small scraper then a stone to finish up. Kind of relaxing, no power tools just some picky hand work.  David

I'm thinking GT in one of his student build threads posted a jig he made to aid in centering the rifle action in the chuck to chase threads.  Might be wrong, I couldn't find it with a quick search.

I set up a rolling block once to do a thread rebore/chase after welding the ring.  It slipped and messed up the threads the first try, I had a lot of work getting it right after that.  Taught me that it was probably worthwhile to bore out cylindrical on the mill, and then use a tap instead, even if the tap is expensive.  Bolt actions, on the other hand, are simple to setup and bore/thread, their shape makes it easier to setup and orient in the chuck.

I also tried aligning the action in a vise on the compound, and then using an internal threading tool set up in the 4 jaw lathe chuck to chase the threads.  The tool flexed around too much to do that right.  Again, a learning experience in what not to do.

Usually I just make a mandrel that extends all the way through the action, and chuck it on centers; then face the action with the action turning on the mandrel.  You have to monitor clearances on the action carefully, a lot of opportunities for accidents with a large, awkward piece turning in the lathe.

I've explained this before but if you notice there are several set screws in these fixtures.  The reason for this is not for the different actions so much as it is for multiple points of contact on the receiver itself.  I find that as these multiple point make contact, and they touch at different angles and surfaces, none have to be exceptionally tight, especially if a small piece of copper (like a penny) is used as a soft jaw.  This copper molds to the action surface and grips very secure.  The more points, the better.
One has to take their time when the action is initially installed in the fixture, square it up close before putting the fixture in the lathe.  A four jaw chuck has to be used, and normal method of dialing this in is required - both radial and axial planes.  Again, this fixture is not a good first time project for someone just getting started running a lathe - even a seasoned hobby machinist may curse me when they try it.  The first few actions I did probably added some different colored hair to my head, but as with many operations in the machining field the first couple are the challenge and they soon become the commonplace.
One tip I've learned with this over time, especially on castings.  Finish the mortise first, make a longer dummy block and set this up in a vertical mill and square the mortise to the spindle of the mill.  Take a light skin in the bore and mill the action face to minimum cleanup so you have references to dial in when you go to the lathe.  Once threaded, you will discover the chamber and bore of the barrel are as square to the breech block as you dialed this in.  If you took the time and dialed the action to within tenths, the alignment will be the same, the gun will probably shoot as well - it's all related.

Greg