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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block (Read 14052 times)
Yellowhouse
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #15 - Jan 23rd, 2019 at 7:58pm
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oneatatime wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 4:42pm:
I think we know what you were saying - for that largest measure you are measuring from one edge of the raised portion of a bullet to the same edge on the opposite side of the bullet. What you want to do is measure from the top of the raised portion to the top of the raised portion on the opposite side. Remember that if your bullet starts at that diameter that the lead that was in the "grooves" of the fired bullet had to go somewhere - either into making the large diameter larger or forming tails on the rear of the bullet behind the grooves.


So you think that a ~.369ish bullet is more in order?
  
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Yellowhouse
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #16 - Jan 23rd, 2019 at 8:00pm
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The culprit:
  
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Yellowhouse
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #17 - Jan 23rd, 2019 at 8:03pm
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marlinguy wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 7:55pm:
svartkruttgris#369 wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 7:49pm:
Wide grooves with "flat" bottoms. Is such common?


It's exactly how Pope did his famous rifling.


Val is yours rifled like this?  Anyone elses?
  
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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #18 - Jan 23rd, 2019 at 9:48pm
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marlinguy wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 7:55pm:
svartkruttgris#369 wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 7:49pm:
Wide grooves with "flat" bottoms. Is such common?


It's exactly how Pope did his famous rifling.


So, did the Pope borrow from the lads at Husqvarna way back then?? Or did the lads borrow from Mauser or Saur or ?? and the Pope did too?
  
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oldman46
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #19 - Jan 23rd, 2019 at 11:36pm
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Bought the 9.3x57 a few years back and probably has the original stock. So before I shoot it will glass bed where the recoil lug and tang are. Did come drilled and tapped with the aluminum weaver bases and bolt altered for scope usage. Have a bunch of the PPU (Serbian) 286 grain round nosed soft points. The nitroexpress forums have a bunch of load data for this cartridge. But I suspect the owner of that husky model 33 may want to be shooting cast bullets. That is one sweet rifle. Frank
  
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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #20 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 9:54am
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oneatatime wrote on Jan 23rd, 2019 at 4:42pm:
Remember that if your bullet starts at that diameter that the lead that was in the "grooves" of the fired bullet had to go somewhere - either into making the large diameter larger or forming tails on the rear of the bullet behind the grooves.


I seem to recall something about the Pope not liking "tails" on lead bullets. IF SO, would that be reason for "flat-bottomed" grooves on rifles designed to soft Pb alloy bullets into small groups?
  
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Bill Lawrence
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #21 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 10:59am
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Who Pope borrowed the most from was George Schalk.  Also, there used to be a copy of Pope's catalog on-line (or Cornell currently sells one), wherein he describes the intricacies and reasons for his rifling.

Bill Lawrence
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #22 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 11:12am
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"The Pope" would be HM Pope, and as Bill mentioned some of what he did was based on Schalk's work, but mostly it was Schalk's muzzleloader breech seating barrels. Of course we know that idea wasn't really Schalk's either; it was Doc Hudson's idea and Schalk made it somewhat under protest. When it worked out for Hudson, Schalk made a lot more gladly.
Pope's method of rifling wasn't to eliminate tails, it was muzzleloading the bullets that eliminated tails. If you look at Pope's rifling it has the flat bottom to the grooves, and also the narrow lands and wide grooves. But of course it's left hand twist. It also does not have the deep grooves the Husky used. Pope's grooves were barely deeper than the bore diameter in the middle of the grooves. It was the squared corners of his cutter that gave the depth, and once cut deep enough for the center of the cutter to begin cutting it stopped with the center having very little depth.
Not uncommon to see barrel makers using wide grooves and narrow lands in custom barrels, and that's what really eliminates tails on breech seating, or fixed ammo barrels. The narrow lands cut into the bullet and move less lead, where wide lands push more lead around, and leave it hanging out as tails.
Schoyen used the same narrow lands and wide grooves, but his cutter was contoured to the bore, so it moved even less lead when the bullet contacted the rifling.
  

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Fred Boulton
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #23 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 11:28am
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If you have access to a lathe, measuring your slug is easy. Chuck up a piece of scrap metal and drill it out using a bit just less than your perceived bore---the bit should just slide into your barrel. Then, using a boring bar, gradually open up the hole until the slug just slides into it with light pressure. Measure the hole---this is your groove diameter.
Fred
  
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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #24 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 1:52pm
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Bill Lawrence wrote on Jan 24th, 2019 at 10:59am:
Who Pope borrowed the most from was George Schalk.  Also, there used to be a copy of Pope's catalog on-line (or Cornell currently sells one), wherein he describes the intricacies and reasons for his rifling.

Bill Lawrence


Thanks Bill for reminder -- think I might still have copy of that Pope's report in a retired computer -- it sounds like something I read long ago.
  
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Yellowhouse
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #25 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 1:53pm
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Fred Boulton wrote on Jan 24th, 2019 at 11:28am:
If you have access to a lathe, measuring your slug is easy. Chuck up a piece of scrap metal and drill it out using a bit just less than your perceived bore---the bit should just slide into your barrel. Then, using a boring bar, gradually open up the hole until the slug just slides into it with light pressure. Measure the hole---this is your groove diameter.
Fred


How to determine groove isn't the question.  The question is that , based on my measurements and considering this type of rifling, which measurement would you use to select a mold?  The .368 or .374?
  
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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #26 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 2:05pm
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marlinguy wrote on Jan 24th, 2019 at 11:12am:
It also does not have the deep grooves the Husky used.


Have looked down bores of some really nice old drillings with 9,3X72 rifle barrels & don't recall any that did not have some of deepest grooves I ever saw. Always presumed those barrels were intended for soft Pb bullets and BP hunting loads. Presume Husqvarna simply copied from Sauer, their major component supplier, at least for hammer doubles.
  
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oneatatime
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #27 - Jan 24th, 2019 at 8:52pm
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I reslugged and measured both of my 33s. The 6 wide grooves are arcs of a cylinder and the lands are narrow. My newest one, which was said to be near the end of production measured .366 (with a micrometer) and the older, mid production one, measured just under .365. My Accurate moulds are casting .367 and .368 and I've been sizing them to .366. I may look into getting a .367 die for the newer rifle depending on how well it shoots with the .366 bullets or I may just pan lube a few first and shoot as cast. I think I'll also remeasure the barrel on my Husky 17C which is also a fairly late one.
  
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Swede
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #28 - Jan 25th, 2019 at 9:29am
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The flat bottom rifling were most likely inspired by Alexander Henry, dont think Husqvarna knew of HM Pope in the late 1860...
  
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Chuckster
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Re: Slugging a Husqvarna Type 33A Rolling block
Reply #29 - Jan 25th, 2019 at 10:51am
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Interesting thing about Pope type rifiling is flat bottom grooves don't work.
If you draw an enlarged view, corners of the grooves get too deep before the center of the reaches bore diameter.
Groove radius is some function of the bore diameter.
Makes you admire Mr. Pope's work even more.
Chuck
  
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