That's minor stuff; I KNOW I have brass, but I can't find it PERIOD!
On another note, I found a way to alter the 22 Hornet brass that really works for me.  First I anneal; then I lube the brass with Redding Dry Graphite neck lube and begin with a 6mm sizing die(utilizing the expanding mandrel; then I use a 25 caliber M-Die.  Slick as butter and nary a split case neck.  I have ~ 50 ready to cut to length, but should I run them through the 25 ACP sizing die first?
Anyhow, it's a lot of work for such a little bang.  Going to look into converting the block to center fire.

I turn the web down BEFORE any sizing, which has worked in other "size-down" operations.   Displaces less metal and leaves a stronger (IMHO) case.   E.g., making 25-20ss out of .223's.
CHRIS

rgchristensen wrote on Dec 3^rd, 2021 at 11:02am:


Strongly disagree.  I tried it both ways when making .25-20 out of .223.  Sectioning cases showed me that trying to turn first tended to leave a ring of thin brass just above the web.   

Sizing the Hornet down to .277 first does not collapse the primer pocket in any case.

I'm in the process of making a Expander plug for my Lee Universal Expander that will be ~ .260 since the bore of my Stevens slugs @ .257~258". Question:  did the original 25 Rim fire ammo utilize a heeled bullet?

ndnchf wrote on Dec 3^rd, 2021 at 2:25pm:


Good post and info.  My thought was that I didn't want to shave Lead when seating the bullet, but most likely wouldn't be a problem.  AND, I can always make a smaller expander if that doesn't work out.  Thanks for the info.
BTW; I might try a heeled bullet and see what results happen.

Yep; borrowed that technique from I think Enos over on Dillon site.  Works well.  Thanks.

Thank you for the info.  I'm making my own Mould for the .25 and  plan on making it to drop .255. Then with a couple of coats of PC I should be good to go.  No lube grooves.