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Normal Topic Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire (Read 3015 times)
Antietamgw
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Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Jan 10th, 2018 at 8:12am
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I have a Sportco conversion of a BSA Cadet to a light  rimfire .22 sporter. It appears that they merely shortened the "legs (arms)?" on the lever to drop the breechblock so that the striker hits the bottom of the case rim. The block sits slightly lower and angled downward than the sides of the action near the breech, like it isn't rising completely.   I'd like to convert back to centerfire. I assume I could do this by replacing the lever or adding material back to the top of the "legs".  What would be an acceptable way to do that?  I'm  thinking of sweating on a piece of pre-hardened tool steel, maybe using Force 44 solder?  I don't have the equipment or experience to TiG weld the material back though I wouldn't be averse to sending it out to someone recommended that does. I imagine it would need to be rehardened after fitting. I'm thinking it might take .050 or so added to the legs. I'd glue a shim to the leg as a trial to be sure I added sufficient material so the block height come be adjusted to the correct height.  I've done some searching here but haven't quite seen this covered. I did find that some of you folks have a bunch of Cadet experience and expertise though!  I'd sure appreciate your suggestions.
  

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MartiniBelgian
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Re: Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Reply #1 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 12:32pm
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Probably cheaper to just purchase a new lever and be done with it...   If the  firing pin is currently striking at 6 o'clock, chances are indeed that the lever 'horns' were shortened to lower the firing pin impact.
  
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n.r.davis
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Re: Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Reply #2 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 1:44pm
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I second that.  Get over to Rimfire Central as they have a section devoted to the Martini.  Pete Nagel has done some welding for me on Martini Breach Blocks and also noted what needed to be done after the welding as far as Heat Treating.  If you go the Weld/rebuild route give him a call.
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Reply #3 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 7:48pm
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I have repaired a few breach block by soldering in a disk, usually for a smaller diameter firing pin. A lot of the 22s had the block raised so the firing pin was at the top of the chamber but I have seen almost as many with it lower. The arms can be built up with weld to raise the block but you need some form of jig to get both sides even with the right curve. I made up a pin with a step so it fits both holes. The pin is clamped in the mill vice and a grinding stone in the spindle. When the lever is rotated on the pin the stone will give the right curve.
  

John Taylor   Machinist/gunsmith
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Antietamgw
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Re: Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Reply #4 - Jan 12th, 2018 at 10:06am
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Thanks for the input, fellas. I suspect replacing the lever is the easiest way - anybody have a spare they want to part with? John, I had the same idea regarding bushing the breechblock and have done that on several Rolling Blocks to clean up the block face and get to a smaller firing pin. I like that a lot better than welding or a screw. 
  

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Antietamgw
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Re: Martini Cadet Rimfire to Centerfire
Reply #5 - Feb 21st, 2018 at 8:54am
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A bit of an update. Seems I've found a couple more small Martini rifles over the past month. One is a 1.2" thick #12 BSA and a take-down Greener that is of standard 1" thickness.

Thoughts on using the Greener take-down action converted to centerfire? That take-down system simply uses the screw that secures the lockwork to clamp the frame and snug up around the barrel threads. Seems fine on a rimfire, kind of wondering about a C.F. though.  It appears that BSA used this same setup on the later thickside No. 12 rifles as well.  I've kind of been thinking a .256 Win, maybe with a longer neck and a 30/30 Wesson or similiar.  Woods walking, quiet plinking, small game an such is the goal. 

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Keep you sword and your plow share, know how and when to use them.
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