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yamoon
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Barrel liner
Nov 5th, 2017 at 4:58pm
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Hello
Would it be advisable for as amateur machinist to install a barrel liner? I have a lathe, the only thing that would worry me would be drilling the barrel. Is it a difficult job? What is everyone’s opinion.
Thanks Mike
  
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n.r.davis
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Re: Barrel liner
Reply #1 - Nov 5th, 2017 at 8:59pm
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HI Mike,

Not that bad of a job.  Get a drill with a pilot on it.  I tried it without one and just about ruined my barrel.  Look at the post "Drilling out the Barrel" to see about using a clamp block on the compound and power feed rather than cranking on the tail stock. 
Good luck!  David
  
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Bent_Ramrod
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Re: Barrel liner
Reply #2 - Nov 6th, 2017 at 8:03am
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I’m in the midst of doing a couple right now.  A piloted drill, with proper size pilot to fit the bore, is a must, as n.r. davis mentioned.

I set the barrel in the lathe headstock and indicate in both ends of the bore, just on general belt-and-suspenders principle.  If you can make a fixture that goes on your lathe carriage, that would eliminate a lot of extra motion, but I made two extensions (short and full-length) and chuck them into the tailstock.  I drill 1/8” at a time, pull out the drill, clean the chips, oil the drill, and go in again.  1/8” is enough to fill the flutes with chips without getting choked up.  Eventually the drill comes out the other end.

I’ve done .22 barrels by hand, with the barrel in a padded vise and the piloted drill in an electric drill motor.  The disadvantage here is that if you push a little too hard, the drill can hog in and snag.  Then it takes a highly delicate sense of feel to knock the gouge off the end of the hole so you can get going again.  With the gradual feed of the tailstock, this is no problem.  By hand, the drill tends to pull itself back into the gouge and snag again.

Fortunately, there is still the other end of the barrel for a second try.  Smiley
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Barrel liner
Reply #3 - Nov 6th, 2017 at 9:55am
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[url]http://pacifictoolandgauge.com//url] has piloted drills with removable pilots so they will work on different calibers.
It's a simple operation to drill out the barrel but I like a close fit so I start with a drill that is one size smaller than I need and then ream for about .002" clearance. Most of my drills I make up myself. Depending on how much metal is being removed, sometimes the drill can go 1/2" to an inch before pulling it out to clear the chips. Sometimes I will use a couple size drills if there is a lot of metal to remove. I do have a few store bought reamers but I make most of what I need. Store bought reamers run about $200. Most black powder barrels will drill easy. Nickel steel barrels are a bit harder and you can't run them as fast or the drill will loose it's cutting edge.
  

John Taylor   Machinist/gunsmith
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