Sounds like 20-1 will be a good place to start with my NOE 32cal 'group buy' 2-cavity mold for the 32-40. Will find out this fall.

Jack, Thanks for posting the Dan Lilja article---Fritz

I have been casting and shooting bullets for almost 40 years. so far I have found that there are more theories  about what happens with a bullet when the rifle is fired than their are fleas on a hound dogs back. how do you know the nose slumps?? how do we prove it does or does not I have shot thousands of bullets from wheel weight and linotype metal and just haven't seen the problem. I cant say for sure it doesn't happen, but I really think that if it does the support of breach seating would actually lessen the slump. now I am new to this game and really have a lot to learn. I think the reason to use soft bullets is with linotype it would be pretty hard to seat the bullet might take a hammer drive the bullet into the lands. I can say from experience that there have been some really small groups fired with simi pointed bullets. it is my guess that the reason pointed bullets cause problems is because less of the bullet is supported during its trip down the barrel.   as far as what I read on the forums there is one site I read that stated paper towels would wear out a good barrel in short order as it had silica in it. I asked the writer to tell me how long it took him to even take the blue off a barrel and didn't get a reply. 
please forgive me as I do not intend to insult anyone all I can go on is my experience, and I have very little with breach seating. I can tell you that I have ben able to shoot more consistently with breach seating that fix ammo. fewer flyers easier to shoot 2 3 or more groups of around the same size. wish I had know about it before I was an old guy.

Joe,
I think you have a pretty good handle on how bullets work and you now know the benefits of BSing.

Personally, I've shot 2% tin in WW's and had no problems at all. I used it in my BSed loads for my 45/70, because it was so hungry for lead and the WW was free.

Because tin makes bullets cast so well, I wouldn't shoot any alloy w/o it.

All my schuetzen bullets that I shoot in matches are spitzers and I cast them in 22/1. I use that alloy, souly because I get 2 more pounds of bullets for my 1lb of tin. I did only one test with 16/1 and found no real difference in accuracy (22/1 edged out 16/1) so, I stick with the 22/1.

Lino can be BSed but, the throat has to have at least 1/8" freebore and the bullet should have at least .002 taper.

Back in the 90's, when CBA first started their Unrestricked Class, I shot the 323471, BSed in my 15 twist Clerke HW. The 323471 was cast in #2 alloy. It's not tapered but, I was still able to seat it with 1/8" freebore and a 1 deg leade. No leading at 2150 fps but, I've never had a barrel lead, using a GC.

Regarding lube grooves, I do not know if any test have been done in our sport. Everyone that I shoot with fill all grooves. All the guy's that have shot 1240+ score, fill all of them.

We mostly pan lube and it's easier to fill them all doing it that way, too. You might be able to add some info about that. Cast 20 - 50 of each, partial and all lube grooves and report back.

Frank

It’s pretty easy to tell if you have enough lube on your bullets. Shoot a few shots and look at the muzzle of your barrel. Do you have a lube star? Good you have enough lube. 

40 Rod

I cant imagine a media you could shoot a bullet into that would not deform the bullet. maybe shooting and catching a bullet as it runs out of steam just before hitting the ground. I still maintain there is a lot more theory than fact as far cast bullets go. i can say for me long heavy bullets with a large bearing surface seem to shoot best.

Joe I tend to agree with you on the long bearing surface it seems I have achieved better results with a cylindrical bullets that typicaly have a similar surface. But I have also had good success with other types and without having a controlled enviroment for testing its really hard to tell. I have noticed some being more influenced than others by the wind conditions when those that should not actualy end up being the ones that are. They all seem to vary to some degree dependant on the day and often times the results are just the opposite with the conditions relatively the same. I try to pick the one that seems to be the most consitent and seems to provide the best results and try to make it better. If it won't get me where I want it to go after exhasting all efforts I will move on with the one that started the closest to it and repeat the process. I have personally found by the above mentioned in regards to different days different results and swithing back and forth between the two I just end up chasing my tail and never catch it.

JLouis

Joe I could not agree with you more, getting out to shoot more is really the fix all to good shooting. How else could one ever figure what might make a change and what might not in regards to bullet hardness and the multitude of other varibles. It is also the only way to know if someone is giving out good and successful personal experianced advice or just arm chair theories or unfounded advice of what should work and the only way for one to prove it to themselves.

I hope you get your car back soon and its nothing serious.

JLouis