RCBS Promelt: Anybody know if there is an adjustment knob under the plastic knob on the Promelt? Mine holds temperature well, but the temperature indicators on the plastic adjustment knob bear no correlation to the temperature of the melt, and read at least 100* too high.

Thanks.

Schuetzendave wrote on Dec 19^th, 2015 at 12:44pm:


What kind of problems are they having?  Electric too slow to melt lead in Canada? 

The casting season is upon us. Lee 20# pot and ladle poured holds +/- 0.5gr with no problem. Only about 2800 more to go.

kcajeel wrote on Dec 22^nd, 2015 at 5:29pm:

Do you have a way to watch your mold temp while casting?

Long before PID was cheap and readily available, I discovered 15-20 degrees  variation in the pot didn't really matter.  10 degrees variation off optimum mold temp will make a big difference.  That $75  going towards a good thermocouple is a much better investment.

Schuetzenmiester,

If you want to watch your mould temperature you can drill and tap a hole in the block and mount a small temp probe that goes back to a separate PID display.  Some of the guys over on the Cast Boolits site have built theirs this way.   

I just finished my second PID unit and the components from Auber instruments totaled $105.65 including shipping.  This was the PID for $46.50, K type heat treat 10" thermocouple w/mini connector for $23.62, thermocouple extension wire for $0.67, K type female panel plug for $3.20 and a 40 amp SSR for $19.

You can find most of these components on e-bay for maybe a little less but you have to be very careful about their working temperature range and scales.  Some only display in C and not F.  I have been unable to find a heat treat thermocouple  (up to 2000 degrees F) on e-bay at least not one that is 10" long. 

As far as US vs. China made I think that if you look at the components they will say made in China regardless of where you purchase them from.

For the enclosure I found a heavy aluminum box with a built in heat sink integral to the entire top of the box. The box was a surplus power supply at a local electronics store.  I paid $10 for the box and was able to reuse the power cord, fuse holder, power switch and almost all of the interior wiring.  I had to pay $2 for a power outlet and I had heat sink grease left over from my first PID project.

Can you cast good bullets without a PID?  Sure, but this helps remove a variable and they're kind of fun to build and use, flashing lights, buzzers for alarms, etc.  What more could you ask for?

Mike

I have found for me that the to cn a drilled and taped hole on the mold is a little cumbersome . What I did was attach a tc directly to the hot plate element. Heated it up until the removable tc I have attached to a digital temp gauge red what I wanted. Then I set the pid to that temp. I alleyways keep the block setting on hot plate when not actually casting. Block seams to keep correct temp and drops consistent pullers.

That works for me. 
Bullets are as good as I can shoot
Larry