For info purposes mine also had the lee shaver trigger job several years ago-- fantastic improvement. Yesterday fired one shot ok, then second shot attempt--nothing; not even a firing pin indent. on primer. Tried several more shots, new shells, noted that the hammer was not going to half cock upon closing breech. I dont (yet) have the reassembly kit so waiting to open up action. Any ideas what failed/what to look for? Thanks.

SSDAVE, thanks. Unfortunately, while I now have the cleanest innards ever, the problem remains.  It is now light enough in there to see what is happening-- the hammer catch IS engaging the full cock notch on the hammer sear but then slips off as the action is further closed--the trigger sear is not holding the hammer sear against the hammer catch.  Any ideas as to whether it is a slipping/worn trigger or hammer sear sear or maybe a broken hammer sear spring or what? 

Take the buttstock off, and where the through bolt goes in, see if someone has threaded in a "Dale McGee" sear engagement adjuster.  It is a 7mm bolt with a turned down nose, inserted into the stock bolt hole, that limits the sear engagement.  If it has had one installed, turn it out a bit, and see if that fixes the problem.  If that fixes the problem, turn it in a bit at a time until the hammer will not engage, then back it out 1/8 turn and lock tite it in with blue locktite.  I think that the Dale McGee fix is a very good one, I know that Texas Mac disagrees with me on that point and recommends the Lee Shaver fix instead.  I've had very good experience with the McGee fix.

There is also a factory screw on the trigger mechanism that is supposed to do the same thing, but really doesn't do much.  Try backing it out, and make sure it isn't limiting the engagement too much.  If those two things don't work, might have to take it apart and look at the trigger/sear/hammer components to figure out why they're not working right.

dave

Postscript:  Be very careful taking the buttstock off.  The through bolt hole is a few hairs thickness from the outside of the stock, and if you get a screwdriver or such off center on the head of the through bolt, it can crack the side of the stock when you turn it.  I use a long 1/4" driver or 3/8" drive socket extension and a screwdriver socket to make sure that doesn't happen when I'm working on mine.  I can't recall what the screw head is, but if I remember correctly, it is a simple slotted screw head.

Thanks to all.  I do have your book, TexasMac but I was putting off opening it (the rifle) up.  The trigger sear spring does give SOME resistance but not as much as on my Browning BPCR-- I had an aha moment about the worn sear face also & exchanged  the 2 trigger assemblies and for one sweeett closing the Win did catch the hammer hook--but after putting all back together it does not repeatedly catch--and now the Browning does not catch either. After swapping trigger assemblies back,  looks like the fun 3 handed game of taking a Miroku apart and putting it back together is upon me.

emmett22405,

Congratulation.  A toast to you as a new member of BDAC (Browning Disassembly & Assembly Club).

BTW, I glad my book helped out.

Wayne

Probably the energy in the firing pin is dissipated somewhat as it pushes in the primer 'til it seats on the bottom of the pocket.