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44 1/2 forearm bedding question (Read 7660 times)

Bulseyetom Oldtimer Offline Posts: 971 Location: Santa Maria, Ca Joined: Oct 31^st, 2010	44 1/2 forearm bedding question Sep 1^st, 2015 at 2:37pm	Print Post
	My rebarreled original 44 1/2 has a forearm that to remove must be slid rearward to remove. In my opinion there is no way to get good uniform contact that way so I want to relieve the wood so it lifts straight down to remove. When I bed it how much of the channel is recommended? Thanks for any tips. Tom


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JLouis Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 10625 Joined: Apr 8^th, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #1 - Sep 1^st, 2015 at 3:19pm	Print Post
	Tom all though not in regards to bedding materal thickness when you do bed it you do not want the back of the forearm touching the face of the reciever. Amount of wood to remove would be of varying opinions, if it were me I would remove the least amount possible to achieve full bearing. But I would also not want any bedding to show where the top of the forearm touches the barrel. By your description it appears the forearm has already been fitted properly? If you haven't done so I would try some inletting black or another inletting marking method to verify the current contact coverage and if close to what you find acceptable do the final inletting from there to meet your needs and then just seal wood. JLouis

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Bulseyetom Oldtimer Offline Posts: 971 Location: Santa Maria, Ca Joined: Oct 31^st, 2010	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #2 - Sep 1^st, 2015 at 5:33pm	Print Post
	John, shouldn't the forearm lift off 90 degrees to the barrel? This one needs to slide back about an inch before it will come off. Also it takes a rap with a rubber mallet to get it far enough forward to line up the holes with the barrel holes. Tom


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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 16384 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #3 - Sep 1^st, 2015 at 8:44pm	Print Post
	I can't visualize how a forearm needs to move back 1" to drop free? Or how a forearm that is already fitted to the barrel and receiver, could possibly move rearward any amount at all? Even if a forearm was simply on a barrel, the normal taper of a barrel towards the muzzle would not allow it to move rearward very much before the taper would stop it. What am I missing here?

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JLouis Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 10625 Joined: Apr 8^th, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #4 - Sep 1^st, 2015 at 10:13pm	Print Post
	Val if the top of the forearm is above the center line of the barrel and it was fit in such a manner that it requires the forearm to be slid back on the barrel taper then one could not lift it off without again sliding it foreward. I don't know what else it could be? JLouis

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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 16384 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #5 - Sep 1^st, 2015 at 11:39pm	Print Post
	JLouis wrote on Sep 1^st, 2015 at 10:13pm: Val if the top of the forearm is above the center line of the barrel and it was fit in such a manner that it requires the forearm to be slid back on the barrel taper then one could not lift it off without again sliding it foreward. I don't know what else it could be? JLouis Now I'm even more confused! I didn't know of any 44 1/2, or CPA that had a "top forearm"? Is this akin to a military rifle with a forearm on top, where a scope would mount? Never seen a CPA with a top forearm, or an original Stevens 44 1/2 with one either! Puzzled. This is one of those instances where a picture would really be worth 1,000 words!!!

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40_Rod Frequent Elocutionist Offline Extremism in the persuit of accuracy is not a vice Posts: 4285 Location: Knoxville, TN Joined: Apr 20^th, 2004	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #6 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 9:20am	Print Post
	The forearm should be bedded so that with the wood is sitting about a dollar bills thickness from the action the arm has full contact with the barrel My guess is that what you have is wood that was cut when it was very dry or in a much drier climate. Over time the wood has picked up the average humidity of your area and swelled. 40 Rod


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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 11562 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #7 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 11:24am	Print Post
	I'm a little confused too. Bedding? Do you mean inlet? Joe.

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JLouis Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 10625 Joined: Apr 8^th, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #8 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:10pm	Print Post
	Val if it is round barrel picture a bullet mould that does not have a perfectly centered cavity, the side that goes beyond center will not let the bullet fall out of the mould it is per say locked in. I have seen forearms fit by wrapping sand paper around the barrel in the portion with less taper and when slid back towards the action into its proper place it is a perfect fit. If the forearm was fitted in this manner and being sighlty beyond center when slid back it to would per say be locked on. I hope that made since out of what I was trying to say? JLouis

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Rebel Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4292 Location: Rockets and Race Cars Joined: Mar 9^th, 2015	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #9 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:12pm	Print Post
	Val, Top of the forearm, not top forearm.

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JLouis Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 10625 Joined: Apr 8^th, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #10 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:16pm	Print Post
	Thank you for the correction Rebel! JLouis

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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 16384 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #11 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:32pm	Print Post
	I totally understand the possibility of the forearm being tight, or even the possibility of it being a round barrel, and encircling the barrel. But I don't understand how it can only move rearward to be able to pull it off? If the barrel has the normal taper, it wont move rearward. And if it's already against the receiver front, it can't move rearward either. So again, what am I missing?

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JLouis Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 10625 Joined: Apr 8^th, 2009	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #12 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:38pm	Print Post
	Val I missed the rearward part now I am confused? JLouis

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Smoke Oldtimer Offline Posts: 717 Location: San Diego Joined: Feb 24^th, 2013	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #13 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 2:04pm	Print Post
	marlinguy wrote on Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 12:32pm: And if it's already against the receiver front, it can't move rearward either. So again, what am I missing? It's a Stevens 44 1/2. Loosten the barrel retainer screw, drop the breechblock, and unscrew the barrel.


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Bulseyetom Oldtimer Offline Posts: 971 Location: Santa Maria, Ca Joined: Oct 31^st, 2010	Re: 44 1/2 forearm bedding question Reply #14 - Sep 2^nd, 2015 at 7:06pm	Print Post
	My thought is that the forearm IS above the centerline of the barrel somewhat. It is a unique barrel and I will take pictures tomorrow and try to post them. The barrel has a machined area just ahead of the action that is not round and has an area to accept Weaver Style bases. When installed there is clearance between the wood and the action but you cannot simply remove the screws and have the forearm come off without sliding it backwards. Like was mentioned above, the taper of the barrel should make that impossible. Thus I am thinking I need to remove some wood along the centerline of the bore so that the forearm removes straight down 90 degrees to the bore. At that point I can use black to see where it hits but I am unsure if I will need to bed the forearm so that it has contact with the barrel the full length, to just bed around the 2 mounting screws to in affect have a free floating barrel, or a combination of the above. Tom


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