Pistol primers:  For me, much depends on the rifle.  I have 3 that will not always fire a rifle primer.  Ammo for them always gets pistol primers.  Some shops still sell the little trays of 100 primers.

I flux at the beginning of the casting session and don't stir the pot during. Each session is generly 118 bullets but at times if in the mood I will do a 168 or at times 218. The extra 18 are to cover any rejects of which is typically 2 to 8. I don't keep any rejects for foulers, I only use match quality bullets. Also shot in the order cast and they weigh within 4 tenths or less.

JLouis

Quote:
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They will help with weak springs but, I didn't use them for that. I used them for accuracy with 4759, 4227 and Win 296.

Like I said, you can use most any good primer with 4227 so, buy what you think will be good for your other rifles, too.

Frank

I stir the pot each time I put the ladle back in.
LG

CajunRebel wrote on Oct 8^th, 2014 at 9:11pm:

  Been there and done that.  Your mold needs better venting.  I hold it tight and wait for the spruce to get  close hardening, then leave a puddle on the top . Bob

j lewis and all,

Regarding the cratering of the breech face with pistol primers I can only offer this information.  I have used large pistol primers in thousands of black powder cartridges and four different rifles without any problems.  Black powder requires very little fire to ignite the powder.  In fact, when smokeless powder was first introduced, primers had to be made hotter to provide proper ignition and avoid misfires and hang fires.

Currently manufactured large rifle primers are .009" longer than currently produced large pistol primers.  Using pistol primers in rifle cartridges allows the primer to slam rearward against the breech face and this can cause cratering in soft steels.  I have overcome this problem by inserting a .007" card wad between the primer and the cartridge case pocket.

I do this by cutting 45 caliber wads from a .007" thick index card.  Using an RCBS bench mounted priming tool, I insert the primer into the seating punch; slide a wad into the shell holder and then insert the base of the case into the shell holder.  Operating the lever causes the primer to cut the wad and seat the primer at the same time.   I have a wire strung across my reloading bench and I use a bungy cord and large rubber band attached to the handle of the priming tool and the wire.  That keeps the seating stem in position to allow the primer, wad and case to be inserted into the shell holder.

Whether or not this would work with smokeless powder I do not know, but it will work with black.  I offer this information only to expand our knowledge base.

feather

Cajun;
I think over time you will discover, and agree that casting good bullets is really an art form and as such everyone will have their own techniques.
I cast in my shop so I have a couple of different routines that I employ to get consistent bullets depending on the time of Year/weather.  You will spend many hours trying to find what works the best 'for you'.  As your experience grows you will start to learn what works for you and what doesn't.  The key is finding a technique that shows promise and refine it.  After many many thousands of bullets, we all still find tiny changes that can make big differences in what would seem a common routine.
There are some youtube videos that show the basic routine but there are so many variables that can change a bullet, you have to learn them all.
Basics that will change a bullet;
1 Melt Temp
2 Mold Temp
3 Mix i.e 16/1 25/1 etc.
4 Weather
5 Mold condition
6 Pouring time
7 Ladle pressure on sprue plate
8 Length of time of cycle for pouring a bullet
9 Sprue plate tension
10 Pouring 'technique'
And on and on and on.  The causes of change can seem endless sometimes.
Those of us that have poured many bullets sometimes forget the time we have spent refining 'our' method, as well as the minor change we subconsciously make as we pour.  It's all based on hours of experience and the only way to get that is cast and cast and cast some more.
Yes 1/2 a grain is very possible.  I sometimes on a good day can cast the first 3 or 4 and get into a rhythm and cast 60 that are within 2 tenths.
60 is my base for a number to cast.  That's about an hour +/-.  That's my limit to get good bullets.
Cast a lot.  Enjoy the time, it will become therapy and allow many hours to think about many things.
Enjoy   
Cary