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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) paper patching questions (Read 15864 times)
Mick B
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paper patching questions
Mar 1st, 2014 at 6:21pm
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I have been messing around with paper patching without success, I have two books on the subject, one by Paul Matthews "The paper Jacket" and another by Randolph S Wright " Paper Patched Bullets A Beginners Guide ".
You'd think will all this much information at hand I should be able to get results but I'm not.
My problem is this, I got a .446" dia PP mould from BACO and started patching the bullets with what I think was described as 9 lb Onion Skin paper. Two wraps of this brought the bullet Dia up to .451", the bore diameter of my barrel is .450". I think that upon chambering the round the patch is being damaged by the rifling on loading. Accuracy with this setup is poor, 3.00" at 100 meters roughly.
My current plan is to size this bullet down to .444" so that when patched the dia will be .450" making it a slip fit in the rifling. The next part of the plan is to seat the bullet well out so that upon chambering the majority of the bullet will be up the barrel, almost like breech seating but with the base of the bullet just in the case mouth.
Any comments or advice on the above would be appreciated.
Mike.
  
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westerner
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #1 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 7:26pm
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I had the same problem thirty years ago. Got tired of the work and headache. Been shooting grease groove bullets ever since.
Watched a shooter with his Sharps at a match in Colorado one time. The paper patches came off the bullet so perfectly every shot. Also noticed he never once hit a gong the entire day.


Good luck.

       Joe.
  

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westerner
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #2 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 8:17pm
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Have you tried the Larry Potter style of loading?   

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   Joe.
  

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JS47
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #3 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 8:49pm
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My neighbor has a lot of experience with PP bullets and gets good results.  I've done some  with good results also.  We use Velum drafting paper which is 2 1/2 mils thick.  Two wraps = 10 mils.  The patches are cut and soaked in water for a short time and then wrapped on the bullet.  The velum is very tough stuff and doesn't tear when you handle it.  Two things are important to good accuracy. 1.Getting the paper indexed on the same place on all bullets and having the paper engage the throat. 2. Making sure the paper doesn't slip on the way down the bore. On a grooved bullet you can roll the patch so that the forward part shrinks into a groove when it dries.  Slick bullets present some problems with indexing the patch and keeping the patch from slipping.  On a slick bullet he rolls the bullet between a piece of steel and a bastard file which knurls the bullet and gives the patch something to grab when it dries.  I'm not sure how he locates the patch the same on all bullets.  He also runs the patched bullet through a size die.  Sometimes white lithium grease sprayed on the patched bullets helps, sometimes it doesn't.  We made a mold for a rolling block 38-55 I used to have that cast a grooved bullet to hold a paper patch.  I don't remember the group size I got with the 38-55 but it was plenty good for hunting which has been our focus.  He got 100 yd. 1 1/2" groups at around 2300 fps from a 375 Whelen.  What I learned from the mold making experience is that custom molds are cheap at twice the price!

John Shaw
  
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westerner
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #4 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 9:21pm
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Maybe your rifle is at fault. Have you tried GG bullets in it?

    Joe.
  

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RSW
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #5 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 10:51pm
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MickB
Hope you are enjoying shooting paper patched bullets. 3" groups are an OK start but I'll bet you can cut your group size in half.
To be of much help, a bit more info would be needed, such as:
-what cartridge you are loading
-how you prep your cases and loading details
-what powder, primers, cases are you using
-bore/groove diameters of your barrel
-bench rest technique
-what sights are you using
-is your 3" group at 100 meters 3-shots, 10-shots, more
-was that on your first outing or are 3" groups consistent
I looked at the Larry Potter video for which Westerner posted a link. In a nutshell, it's a good quickie tutorial and his method is certainly adequate for loading short range hunting ammo. Target ammo takes more care and attention to detail though.
Anyway, post more info or PM me and I'll try to lend a hand.
  

Randy W
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westerner
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #6 - Mar 1st, 2014 at 11:26pm
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PMs??   We all get cut out of the loop??

      Joe.
  

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gunlaker
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #7 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 12:55am
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Mick, I shoot a lot of paper patched bullets in black powder rifles.  Both breech seated and bore diameter fixed ammunition, all with black powder.  RSW's book is a very good place to start.  For all of my rifles but one, I've switched to Seth Cole 8lb paper.  It will bring you Baco .444" bullet up to .450", although you could size it down a bit.  I do size a Baco .446" down to .445" for one of my rifles.   If you are shooting a rifle that does not have a tight chamber ( I.e. designed for bore diameter bullets with a mouth of .474" or smaller ) then you might get better results with a lube cookie.  Paper patched loads, especially in modern chambers can be quite picky about the wad(s) you use.

Chris.
  
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MikeT
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #8 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 12:52pm
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First, do you have 'paper ring' issues?  That is a very thin ring of paper in the chamber after the shot.  If your brass is short for the chamber, this will happen.

Second, how difficult is it to chamber your cartridge with the .451 patched bullets?  Unless you are using this load for hunting, tight in the bore is the best.  My 45-70 PP bullets are 0.4506" for a snug fit, but not hard to chamber a round.

Third, how deep in the case is the bullet seated?  I normally go with 1/8" seating depth.  I had my 40-70ss chamber modified by Shiloh to a 7 degree lead, and that allows me to shoot a PP bullets with most any seating depth based on patched diameter, from 0.398 to 0.404 patched diameter.

Fourth, what alloy are you casting?  I favor 20:1 but depending on the nose shape of your bullet slightly harder may help.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT
  
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Mick B
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #9 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 8:41pm
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Thanks for all the replies, My rifle is a CPA 45/70, using GG bullets ( nose Pour Brooks 528gr 20-1 ) it will shoot between 1.2" and 1.75" at 100 meters if it's not very windy.
I have a 24x scope I sometimes use when load testing and this will reduce the group size by about 1/4".
Cases are Starline, CCIBR2 primers have proved to be the best in this rifle so far, I have tried CCI 200 LR, Federal GM215M, Federal GM210M and RWS.
Cases are neck turned and matched by weight, all trimmed to exactly 2.100" Current load is 65 gr of PP Wano, 1 .060" over  powder LDPE wad. When using the greasers the bullet is seated with just the first driving band visable, OAL is 2.810".  All groups shot are 5 shots at 100 meters off the bench. I was just thinking that if I was able to seat the PP bullets up into the rifling but seated say 1/8" in the case this may be better, in order to achieve this without patch damage I think I will have to reduce the patched diameter down from .451" to about .450". The barrel is a Badger .450" - 558" .
Mike.
  
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RSW
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #10 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 10:12pm
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MickB
Your idea of sizing slugs to .444 seems a good one, especially if you have a push-through sizing die. A patched bullet of .450 or a thousandth under works well for starters. As you mentioned, a bullet seated in the case about 1/8 or perhaps 1/16" should be about right. Not having used Wano, I can't comment on how well it might work or how much compression (or not) that it needs. I have had best results using Swiss 1F and 1.5F, run through a 30" drop tube with slight compression, only enough so all cases have same height powder columns. I use a card or fiber wad but plastic should also work.
From your description, I take it you are shooting dry, that is no lubrication. You might consider smearing a light coat of graphite on the exposed paper of loaded ammo or smear it on the patched bullet if you apply patches wet (wait until patches dry to apply graphite). I haven't had a chance to finish my accuracy comparisons but I seem to get fewer flyers with graphite on the patches.
You didn't mention anything about fouling mitigation but with paper patches you are more than likely going to have to wipe between shots to get good accuracy. I generally use two damp (almost wet) patches followed by one dry, making sure the chamber is dry.
One more point, if the above helps improve your groups, try an under primer wad. Use a short, thin strip of newspaper or other thin paper, insert cartridge into your priming tool, slide the paper strip under the cartridge head, seat the primer. This wad is then at the bottom of the primer pocket, between the primer and flash hole. This thin wad keeps stray powder kernels from contacting the primer which might cause inconsistent ignition shot-to-shot.
Welcome to paper patching insanity and good shooting!
  

Randy W
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #11 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 10:26pm
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A question, why are you patching to bore diameter? Why not groove dia. I've never seen anything shoot well with a bullet that rattles down the bore.
Later Longdistance1
  
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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #12 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 10:29pm
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Don't know if you've been there, but the Shiloh Forum has a lot of PP Shooters and Info on this subject..
I personally haven't ever tried PP yet.

Terry Smiley
  

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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #13 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 10:31pm
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Longdistance1...from what I've read, lots of folks patch to bore diameter in order to seat the bullet way out in the lands...More powder capacity....the bullets bumps up on firing and fills the grooves.

Terry Smiley
  

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Re: paper patching questions
Reply #14 - Mar 2nd, 2014 at 10:32pm
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Longdistance1
The bullet gets bumped-up to full groove diameter by the black powder ignition be it a paper patched or grease groove bullet.
  

Randy W
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There are indeed two Americas. Simply put, it is not the haves and have nots. The two Americans are in reality divided into those who do and those who don't.
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