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To drill & tap or not to drill & tap (Read 38205 times)

Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #60 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 8:29am	Print Post
	BP wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 1:12am: [color=#00ffff]Here's two long scopes on two different Stevens rifles, all dovetail mounted, and they handle just fine when stretching my legs out in the woods... Yes, such scopes on a Favorite wouldn't be a problem (though still not so handy as a shorter scope). But there's a world of difference between a Favorite so equipped, and a 10 or 12 lb. gun with a 32 or 34 inch scope. Also a world of difference between the brilliant optics of a Parsons, or other modern scope, & a Stevens Favorite model scope.


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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #61 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 8:34am	Print Post
	BP wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 3:16am: Joe, Know what you mean, 60 pounds has too much mass to move when you bump the scope. The optics of the Parsons long scopes are nice and brite compared to others. Don't know what Stevens long scope you have but here are the instructions from my old Stevens Scope catalogue: INSTRUCTIONS All telescopes are furnished with cross-hairs. If, after the telescope is mounted, the cross-hairs do not stand perfectly level, unscrew the eye-cup and draw out the eye piece far enough to grasp with thumb and finger, then turn to proper place and push back, screwing down cap firmly. The letters UP marked on the brass tube, indicate which way the tube should be placed. The eye piece can easily be drawn out with a knife blade inserted in the groove in extreme end of brass tube. The eye piece should never be taken apart, as there is little or no chance of dirt getting inside. The eye-lens can be cleaned without removing it. No. 368 telescope has external adjustment of cross-hairs, forward of rear mount. Loosen the screw and move forward or back to focus and to right or left to level the cross-hairs. The object lens (in forward end of tube) should be taken out and cleaned occasionally. This can be done by removing the front cap and stop pin; remove focusing screw (if it is a focusing telescope), insert finger and draw out brass tube. Clean with a piece of worn cotton cloth, or linen handkerchief. If the forward end of tube is fitted with a cork, it will keep the telescope comparatively free from dirt. Don't know if they will help, but they do give a fun glimpse into times past. The 368 model was an superior scope for its time, & not bad today, but completely different in optical construction from Stevens long tube model.


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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 11523 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #62 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 8:44am	Print Post
	My Stevens scope is a 161. Dave Casey explained to me how to adjust the crosshair focus. Couldn't get the hairs clear. Joe.

	A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #63 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 9:09am	Print Post
	westerner wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 8:44am: My Stevens scope is a 161. Dave Casey explained to me how to adjust the crosshair focus. Couldn't get the hairs clear. Joe. That's a late Favorite model, improved over the earlier 161s--and a very nice one, with the screw to allow focusing of the objective lens. The lenses inside the eyepiece may be dirty, & because of the way the eyepiece is constructed, they are a huge pain to disassemble & clean.


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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 16290 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #64 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 11:18am	Print Post
	Redsetter wrote on Nov 21^st, 2013 at 10:56pm: marlinguy wrote on Nov 21^st, 2013 at 8:38pm: Most important ( at least to me!) is when the changes were done. Well, yes--that goes without saying!: the work done before the gun became a "collector's item." I've got & use a variety of Stevens scopes, but have never even seen Pope mounts offered for sale; just as well I guess, as they'd be unusable without a barrel milled to fit them. Equally scarce, & superior, I think, in its operation, was Stevens #4 Double Micrometer, one of which I found after years of searching. Not quite correct. Most people think all Pope mounts were dovetailed into the barrel, but Pope actually listed separate mounts with the dovetail cuts in his catalog. My understanding it not many people opted to purchase the mounts as Pope didn't recommend his own mounts because he felt it was inferior to the cuts in the barrel. My gun has a pair of the Pope mounts with his optional bases. The only pair of bases I've ever seen, and so far nobody else has located another pair that I know of. (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links) (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links) (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)

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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #65 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 11:40am	Print Post
	marlinguy wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 11:18am: Not quite correct. Most people think all Pope mounts were dovetailed into the barrel, but Pope actually listed separate mounts with the dovetail cuts in his catalog. My understanding it not many people opted to purchase the mounts as Pope didn't recommend his own mounts because he felt it was inferior to the cuts in the barrel. My gun has a pair of the Pope mounts with his optional bases. The only pair of bases I've ever seen, and so far nobody else has located another pair that I know of. No obvious reason why these mounts should be inferior to those attached with cuts into the barrel, & certainly easier to install; probably just Pope's crankiness that he said what he did. With the scope detached, the blocks aren't so attractive, but that's a different matter.


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BP Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 8039 Location: Westside Joined: Aug 27^th, 2006	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #66 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 2:40pm	Print Post
	Joe, Nice scope! Can you tell if someone may have screwed around with the eye piece before the scope ended up in your hands?

	There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading, the few who learn by observation, and the rest who have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. Proud Noodlehead
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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #67 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 3:50pm	Print Post
	BP wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 2:40pm: Joe, Nice scope! Can you tell if someone may have screwed around with the eye piece before the scope ended up in your hands? Hey, you may have something there--if someone disassembled the eyepiece (should be 4 individual lenses inside) & failed to put them back in the right order; wouldn't be hard to do.


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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 11523 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #68 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 6:47pm	Print Post
	If I remember right, the scope has a brass lense cell that is fixed. Dave instructed me to loosen the eyepiece, then bump the scope so the cell slides back against the eyepiece, then adjust the eyepiece forward until the crosshairs become clear. Don't know what keeps the eyepiece from sliding forward and back. Will take another look at it. Joe.

	A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #69 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 7:33pm	Print Post
	westerner wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 6:47pm: Don't know what keeps the eyepiece from sliding forward and back. Joe. I'll tell you why--because they're fitted so GD tightly! You need to pull the eyepiece all the way out of the tube, which won't be easy, polish or buff it, then oil it with something light, like RemOil.


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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 11523 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #70 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 7:48pm	Print Post
	Ahso! Will take a look after the Frau goes to bed. Joe.

	A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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slumlord44 Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2850 Location: Lebanon, Illinois 62254 Joined: Dec 21^st, 2007	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #71 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 9:36pm	Print Post
	While we are talking about Stevens scopes, I have a 370 that I am still looking for a lens to replace the one that I managed to chip the edges rather badly. Don't as how. My own stupidity. Also not sure if I put it back together right. Anyone know anything that would help me? Are the 368 and 370 similar?


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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 11523 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #72 - Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 9:38pm	Print Post
	Cell is fairly tight. Has a ring machined around the end so can get hold of it with the fingernails. One screw at the forward end of the brass lense cell. Cross hairs are extremely fine. Hard to tell if they are in focus or not. Like I said, my right eye don't see so good anymore. Have trouble seeing the c-hairs in all my scopes. Is strange because the vertical hair is clear, the horizontal hair is blurry and looks further away. Rotate the scope a quarter turn, same thing. Cockeyed Joe?? Joe.

	A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #73 - Nov 23^rd, 2013 at 12:04am	Print Post
	slumlord44 wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 9:36pm: While we are talking about Stevens scopes, I have a 370 that I am still looking for a lens to replace the one that I managed to chip the edges rather badly. Don't as how. My own stupidity. Also not sure if I put it back together right. Anyone know anything that would help me? Are the 368 and 370 similar? I suspect, sorry to say, that finding a replacement lens is a lost cause. But chipping of the edges shouldn't detract noticeably from image quality. Stevens short tube scopes are all similar in basic optical design, though I've never seen a 370. The long tube models, with that long eyepiece, are distinctly different, & optically inferior--these were the cheapest models. I can't believe offering such a confusing number of different model numbers did their business any good.


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Redsetter Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 3468 Location: New York Joined: Aug 6^th, 2013	Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap Reply #74 - Nov 23^rd, 2013 at 12:13am	Print Post
	westerner wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2013 at 9:38pm: Is strange because the vertical hair is clear, the horizontal hair is blurry and looks further away. Rotate the scope a quarter turn, same thing. Cockeyed Joe?? Joe. Sounds somewhat like astigmatism, though I'm certainly no optician. Really, you need to find someone else to check this out & tell you whether he sees the same problem with the crosshairs. No sense continuing to tinker with the scope if the trouble is your own eyesight.


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