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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) To drill & tap or not to drill & tap (Read 38236 times)
Redsetter
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #60 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 8:29am
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BP wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 1:12am:
[color=#00ffff]Here's two long scopes on two different Stevens rifles, all dovetail mounted, and they handle just fine when stretching my legs out in the woods...


Yes, such scopes on a Favorite wouldn't be a problem (though still not so handy as a shorter scope).  But there's a world of difference between a Favorite so equipped, and a 10 or 12 lb. gun with a 32 or 34 inch scope.  Also a world of difference between the brilliant optics of a Parsons, or other modern scope, & a Stevens Favorite model scope.
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #61 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 8:34am
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BP wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 3:16am:
Joe,

Know what you mean, 60 pounds has too much mass to move when you bump the scope. 
The optics of the Parsons long scopes are nice and brite compared to others.
Don't know what Stevens long scope you have but here are the instructions from my old Stevens Scope catalogue:

       INSTRUCTIONS
       All telescopes are furnished with cross-hairs. If, after the telescope is mounted, the cross-hairs do not stand perfectly level, unscrew the eye-cup and draw out the eye piece far enough to grasp with thumb and finger, then turn to proper place and push back, screwing down cap firmly. The letters UP marked on the brass tube, indicate which way the tube should be placed. The eye piece can easily be drawn out with a knife blade inserted in the groove in extreme end of brass tube. The eye piece should never be taken apart, as there is little or no chance of dirt getting inside. The eye-lens can be cleaned without removing it.
       No. 368 telescope has external adjustment of cross-hairs, forward of rear mount. Loosen the screw and move forward or back to focus and to right or left to level the cross-hairs.
       The object lens (in forward end of tube) should be taken out and cleaned occasionally. This can be done by removing the front cap and stop pin; remove focusing screw (if it is a focusing telescope), insert finger and draw out brass tube. Clean with a piece of worn cotton cloth, or linen handkerchief. If the forward end of tube is fitted with a cork, it will keep the telescope comparatively free from dirt.


Don't know if they will help, but they do give a fun glimpse into times past. 
          Smiley



The 368 model was an superior scope for its time, & not bad today, but completely different in optical construction from Stevens long tube model.
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #62 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 8:44am
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My Stevens scope is a 161.  Dave Casey explained to me how to adjust the crosshair focus. Couldn't get the hairs clear. 

     Joe.
  

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Redsetter
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #63 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 9:09am
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westerner wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 8:44am:
My Stevens scope is a 161.  Dave Casey explained to me how to adjust the crosshair focus. Couldn't get the hairs clear. 

     Joe.


That's a late Favorite model, improved over the earlier 161s--and a very nice one, with the screw to allow focusing of the objective lens.  The lenses inside the eyepiece may be dirty, & because of the way the eyepiece is constructed, they are a huge pain to disassemble & clean.
  
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marlinguy
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #64 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 11:18am
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Redsetter wrote on Nov 21st, 2013 at 10:56pm:
marlinguy wrote on Nov 21st, 2013 at 8:38pm:
  Most important ( at least to me!) is when the changes were done.


Well, yes--that goes without saying!: the work done before the gun became a "collector's item."  

I've got & use a variety of Stevens scopes, but have never even seen Pope mounts offered for sale; just as well I guess, as they'd be unusable without a barrel milled to fit them.  Equally scarce, & superior, I think, in its operation, was Stevens #4 Double Micrometer, one of which I found after years of searching.


Not quite correct. Most people think all Pope mounts were dovetailed into the barrel, but Pope actually listed separate mounts with the dovetail cuts in his catalog. My understanding it not many people opted to purchase the mounts as Pope didn't recommend his own mounts because he felt it was inferior to the cuts in the barrel.
My gun has a pair of the Pope mounts with his optional bases. The only pair of bases I've ever seen, and so far nobody else has located another pair that I know of.
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Redsetter
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #65 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 11:40am
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marlinguy wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 11:18am:

Not quite correct. Most people think all Pope mounts were dovetailed into the barrel, but Pope actually listed separate mounts with the dovetail cuts in his catalog. My understanding it not many people opted to purchase the mounts as Pope didn't recommend his own mounts because he felt it was inferior to the cuts in the barrel.
My gun has a pair of the Pope mounts with his optional bases. The only pair of bases I've ever seen, and so far nobody else has located another pair that I know of.


No obvious reason why these mounts should be inferior to those attached with cuts into the barrel, & certainly easier to install; probably just Pope's crankiness that he said what he did.  With the scope detached, the blocks aren't so attractive, but that's a different matter.
  
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BP
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #66 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 2:40pm
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Joe,

Nice scope!
Can you tell if someone may have screwed around with the eye piece before the scope ended up in your hands?
  

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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #67 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 3:50pm
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BP wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 2:40pm:
Joe,

Nice scope!
Can you tell if someone may have screwed around with the eye piece before the scope ended up in your hands?


Hey, you may have something there--if someone disassembled the eyepiece (should be 4 individual lenses inside) & failed to put them back in the right order; wouldn't be hard to do.
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #68 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 6:47pm
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If I remember right, the scope has a brass lense cell that is fixed.  Dave instructed me to loosen the eyepiece, then bump the scope so the cell slides back against the eyepiece, then adjust the eyepiece forward until the crosshairs become clear. Don't know what keeps the eyepiece from sliding forward and back. Will take another look at it. 

       Joe.
  

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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #69 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 7:33pm
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westerner wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 6:47pm:
Don't know what keeps the eyepiece from sliding forward and back.
       Joe.


I'll tell you why--because they're fitted so GD tightly!  You need to pull the eyepiece all the way out of the tube, which won't be easy, polish or buff it, then oil it with something light, like RemOil. 
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #70 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 7:48pm
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Ahso! Will take a look after the Frau goes to bed.

   Joe.
  

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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #71 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 9:36pm
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While we are talking about Stevens scopes, I have a 370 that I am still looking for a lens to replace the one that I managed to chip the edges rather badly. Don't as how. My own stupidity. Also not sure if I put it back together right. Anyone know anything that would help me? Are the 368 and 370 similar?
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #72 - Nov 22nd, 2013 at 9:38pm
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Cell is fairly tight. Has a ring machined around the end so can get hold of it with the fingernails. 

One screw at the forward end of the brass lense cell.  Cross hairs are extremely fine. Hard to tell if they are in focus or not. Like I said, my right eye don't see so good anymore. Have trouble seeing the c-hairs in all my scopes.  Is strange because the vertical hair is clear, the horizontal hair is blurry and looks further away. Rotate the scope a quarter turn, same thing. Cockeyed Joe??

    Joe. 

   
  

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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #73 - Nov 23rd, 2013 at 12:04am
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slumlord44 wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 9:36pm:
While we are talking about Stevens scopes, I have a 370 that I am still looking for a lens to replace the one that I managed to chip the edges rather badly. Don't as how. My own stupidity. Also not sure if I put it back together right. Anyone know anything that would help me? Are the 368 and 370 similar?


I suspect, sorry to say, that finding a replacement lens is a lost cause.  But chipping of the edges shouldn't detract noticeably from image quality.

Stevens short tube scopes are all similar in basic optical design, though I've never seen a 370.  The long tube models, with that long eyepiece, are distinctly different, & optically inferior--these were the cheapest models.  I can't believe offering such a confusing number of different model numbers did their business any good.
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #74 - Nov 23rd, 2013 at 12:13am
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westerner wrote on Nov 22nd, 2013 at 9:38pm:
  Is strange because the vertical hair is clear, the horizontal hair is blurry and looks further away. Rotate the scope a quarter turn, same thing. Cockeyed Joe??
    Joe.

   


Sounds somewhat like astigmatism, though I'm certainly no optician.  Really, you need to find someone else to check this out & tell you whether he sees the same problem with the crosshairs.  No sense continuing to tinker with the scope if the trouble is your own eyesight.
  
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