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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) To drill & tap or not to drill & tap (Read 38160 times)
Sendaro
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #15 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 6:55pm
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Have half a mind to just head for CPA and have them make another barrel for the 44 1/2 in 32-40. Have contacted Gail and she tells me that can be done for around $700.00. She suggested a 1 in 15 twist in a Douglas XX #4 contour barrel. I'd like to shoot the rifle from the benchrest and some off hand. May even take it to the field to pop a chuck or two. Living less than an hour for Shushan NY, hunting chucks there I'd feel like I was walking in the foot steps of a few famous riflemen that would approve of my outfit. 

Was in Shushan about a year ago and could have sworn I smelled cigars and black powder smoke just outside the village limits.
 
OK Guys help me pick out the barrel and bullet mold I'd need to do the project right the first time. I would be shooting breech seated bullets with smokeless powder and would like to have the rifle chambered in 32-40. I've been told that I should have bullets that weigh around 200 grains. What say you?

The 1 in 16" twist in the factory barrel of my Stevens 44 in 32-40 does not stabilize 200 grain SAECO #762 bullets at all! So do I want a 1 in 15" or a 1 in 14" twist in my new barrel?

                                                Sendaro
  
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frnkeore
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #16 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 7:22pm
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I think you get more suggestions for the 14 twist.

Try to fine a P jones 32002 mold for it or get one from someone and sent it to Steve Brooks to copy. He has a fast turn around time.

Frank
  

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Redsetter
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #17 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 7:55pm
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BP wrote on Nov 15th, 2013 at 6:41pm:
Redsetter wrote Quote:
Not at all.  For one thing, the brl markings on Winchesters, except the late ones, are spread out over so much space that there's no room to mount the blocks without drilling the letters.  For another, Winchester never promoted scopes until it began producing them (probably to compete with Stevens).

Wish I could find a nice HW I could buy for half its value because its brl had been drilled!

Redsetter,

I'm suspecting that WRA rifles that were ordered with factory installed WRA scopes had the barrel address and calibre markings shifted from the 12 o'clock position to the 10 o'clock position.



Sure, that's correct, but I was referring to the multitude of guns produced before Winchester jumped (belatedly) into the optics game.   
  
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Redsetter
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #18 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 8:16pm
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Sendaro wrote on Nov 15th, 2013 at 6:55pm:
Was in Shushan about a year ago and could have sworn I smelled cigars and black powder smoke just outside the village limits.
                                                Sendaro


That's possible, but how many chucks did you see run over in the road?  As late as the early '80s, their little mangled corpses made (sickening) mile-markers, almost.  Same in the Catskills, where I lived at the time.  But soon after, the coyote invasion began, & it's never been the same.

Sometime in the '90s I visited a farmer near Shusan who confirmed what I'd seen happen in the Catskills, & told me he'd watched coyotes stalking them in his own fields.  For critters as smart as coyotes, they're sitting ducks. 
  
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JLouis
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #19 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 8:45pm
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AC Gould is a dear friend and provided you with sound advise John.

JLouis
  

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Sendaro
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #20 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 9:19pm
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Redsetter,

   I have to agree. When I was a kid there were no coyotes around, and sometime in the 1980s they showed up. They have nearly wiped out the chuck populations in several areas. So now we shoot coyotes. I still hunt chucks but not near Shushan NY. For many years I hunted them in the Mohawk Valley and south west of there. However the last few years it's been much harder to find any than ever before. The days of shooting 30 or more in a full day of hunting are gone. If I have a day with 8 to 12 kills that's a good one and I have to travel for that. Best day ever was back in the early 1990s when we shot 52 chucks in one day between my hunting partner and I. Have attached a photo with 17 that I shot one afternoon with a single shot rifle. The rifle was not of any great age. It was a 6MM PPC that I shoot in BR comp. I took it to the field just to see how it would do on chucks, as it was classefied as a light varmint rifle in BR shooting. By Joe, it killed chucks just fine! Euber 68 grain BR bullets did the trick to 428 yards. I miss the good old days!

                                Sendaro

« Last Edit: Nov 15th, 2013 at 9:38pm by Sendaro »  
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slumlord44
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #21 - Nov 15th, 2013 at 9:59pm
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Back to the drill and tap or not drill and tap question. If the gun is properly drilled and tapped in the original factory location, there is no way to tell after the fact that it was not done in the Stevens factory. The flip side is that a gun is only factory original once. Your gun, your choice. Another barrel is also a perfectly good option.
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #22 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 1:24am
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If you choose to not drill, you'll never be tempted to lie about it.   


Sendaro, great picture! Can see by the countryside, the weather and critters, how a man could spend hours and hours hunting chucks.

    Joe.
  

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Sendaro
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #23 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 6:54am
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Westerner,

    Have hunted since I was a kid and all over North America, but chuck and varmint hunting with an accurate rifle has always been my favorite. Have harvested a lot of big game, small game, and birds, but there is just somthing about setting up a long range shot on a small target with an accurate rifle that I've tuned and loaded the ammo for that keeps me coming back. Have been doing it for 50+ years now and still go every year. 

    Plan to take my Stevens 32-40 to the field this year and pop a few chucks with it. However I'm still working out the bugs of a cold bore shot. Firing fouling shots to warm the bore before shooting at live targets just doesn't work out that well. I need to be able to hit a target of 3" in diameter at a distance of 200 yards on the first shot from a cold fouled bore with my 32-40. Then I'll take it to the field. 

                               Sendaro
  
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Sendaro
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #24 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 7:56am
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JLouis,

           A C Gould makes a good point I have to agree. However I think that I will keep the rifle's org. barrel as is and see the folks at CPA to have a new barrel made. There is nothing wrong with a 2 barrel set. Also I can go with a little heavier barrel, and a faster twist. What twist would you recommend? CPA has recommended a 1 in 15" twist, and a 200 grain bullet mold. Do you think the 1 in 14" would be a better choice? How about barrel length. They can furnish a 28". Would that be any advantage over the org factory 26".  Please advise. I value your opinion.

                             Thanks, Sendaro
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #25 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 8:23am
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Sounds like the best plan sendero. You never know what the future may hold! Have fun with her and I'd want the 1/14. Big boolits. 

John
  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #26 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 12:07pm
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John I have had all my success with a 28" 15 twist and a 6 diameter ogive  210gr. spitzer bullet. The 14 twist will let you go a little heaver and give you more variety. I did have 14 twist for a short time but felt it provided an over spin ( per Mann's findings ) and the out shots went further out. It did shoot extremely well but not quite as consistently well as my 15 twist.

I might also add I have since went to a 195gr. flat nose bullet ( Darr 190B ) and it has by far been the most consistent and provided the smallest groups. I have not noticed any increased condition movement even in 10-15MPH winds as should be expected? I might also add both bullets are cylindrical and I personally have not had great success with tapered or two diameter bullets and I have tried several different varieties and nose designs. 

Just my experience.
JLouis
« Last Edit: Nov 16th, 2013 at 12:21pm by JLouis »  

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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #27 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 2:08pm
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If Stevens d&t the barrel, didn't they put the name and address on the 1 o'clock flat?  I've never been able to d&t an original barrel, to each his own.   

I did much like Kurt did except Steve Earle made a flat piece of steel with the scope blocks screwed to it for me.  I use Accraglas to attach it to the barrel but I use no strap.  To date, I haven't had one come off yet until I wanted it off.
Phil
  
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Sendaro
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #28 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 6:51pm
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JLouis,

      Thanks for getting back to me. It will be a 1 in 15" that I will have made up and in 28 inch. What do you think of Douglas XX barrels? Any other make you would suggest? 

   CPA has molds in stock. I'll take a look at what they have. The Darr mold you mention is that a design of Darr or is he the mold maker also.

       CPA also has barrels that are round, half round and octagon, and all octagon. I'm leaning towards the round barrel for two reasons. It has been my experince with octogon and part octagon they do not seem to shoot as well as most of the round barrels that I have worked with in modern high velocity firearms that shoot jacketed bullets. Also a round barrel is easy to make a forearm for. Just in case I want something different to use off the benchrest.

        Thanks again for you help.

                                                 Sendaro

  
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Re: To drill & tap or not to drill & tap
Reply #29 - Nov 16th, 2013 at 7:34pm
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John I think very highly of the Douglas XX barrels, I currently have two and could not want for more. I have also had more exapensive barrels by highly recommended makers that did not in my opinion shoot as consistenty as good. In our group of shooters all but a very few use Douglas XX barrels and are having the same success as myself and think highly of them. I too like a round barrel of 28 inches in length and the Darr Mould is from the 70's and was made by Barry and has become hard to come by.

JLouis
  

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