Chuck,
Do not know your process for quenching small springs, I learned that if you place the small thin ones on a 3/16 to 1/4" thick piece of scrap steel using vise grips to hold the plate (1/4" x 1" x 3" is what I use) then heat plate and spring to quenching temperature or correct color, slide  the spring directly off the plate into a cooling medium at least 6 to 8 inches deep (water/brine) they usually take full hardness, then temper to your needs.
Mike

I haven't made one of those springs yet, a member here sent me an original that I installed and have been using for months!...But, The problem i had with my Cody Ballard #7 was self induced i think...The screw for the heavy spring for the set trigger came loose and would not work. I took the block apart found the problem and tightened the screw. Tightening the screw all the way made the spring way too tight and the knockoff of the rear trigger damaged the sear spring. Later after realizing that, I , after installing the new to me spring, adjusted the heavy spring just a little tighter than necessary for reliable Knock off....and haven't had a problem yet! I just thought I'd share that because maybe your screw for your rear trigger is set up too tight?

Terry

Terry

Chuck,

Are you using a small heat-treating oven?

The last time I replaced a Ballard sear spring, I got into my box of old broken springs and found a broken single action spring (the double spring for the trigger and bolt). After some careful grinding, it fit perfectly and worked like a charm.