Thanks. How does one contact John King?

Thanks. I'll give him a call.

Does anyone know who might be able to remark the receiver with the correct lettering? Would like to get it remarked prior to having it re-case-colored. While most of the case-coloring is gone, the blue on the block and hammer are probably 95% or better. Under where the base of the Lyman tang sight was sitting the case-coloring is beautiful.

Per da Haas, I'll likely trim the trigger main-spring to get rid of the rebound feature. Can then lighten the trigger to a reliable 2#, or so. From what I've read and info from a friend who shoots a new C. Sharps Hepburn, the double-set triggers are not the way to go. 

Don't think I'll be cutting down the stock. Has $500 of very nice checking that I would hate to pay to replace. Will try my slip-on recoil pad to help with the curved buttplate. For now, will have the 29" barrel lined and trigger done and then shoot it. Will eventually go the whole 9-yards and have the lettering done, metal & wood refinished and original barrel lengthened and lined. All in good time.

Small world. Have been e-mailing back and forth with Dale trying to set up exactly what work to have done. The lined barrel will need to be blued. 

One question to all is on what side of the receiver is the Hepburn Patent 1879 info? Someone I was talking to said left side. Mine is on the right side below the lever. 

Same question on the serial number. My barrel and lower tang are both marked on the bottom with matching serial numbers. However, now that I've removed the stock I find that both the upper and lower tang are marked on the side (under the wood)  with serial numbers that match each other, but are about 600 different from the external serial numbers on the lower tang and barrel. Are the two serial numbers on the side of the tangs only to match up the receiver and lower tang while the external serial numbers are to match up the action and the barrel?

Last question (for the moment)........ hot-salt blue or rust blue for the barrel? What did Remington use originally? Big difference in cost.

I've got two Hepburns and the numbers on the sides of the tang don't match on either one.  
Is there really a need to eliminate the rebound feature of the firing pin as long as it's going to remain a black powder round?  That will eliminate the need of having to put it on half cock each time you reload.  Bob

Am told that lightening the trigger pull is a problem with a rebounding trigger. I want a crisp 2# trigger. The only work necessary to remove the rebound, per da Haas, is to remove 3/16" from the end of the hammer spring. Not a big deal and easily replaced, if needed.

Put in a lighter trigger spring and you should be able to get down to about 1 3/4lbs.  Keep the rebounding firing pin if it's not a hot rod.  Bob

Both of my Hepburns and all my Rollers have the patent dates on the left side of the receivers. Dale Woody recut or restamped all the receiver and barrel markings on one of my Hepburns when he engraved and re-cased the action.
The buttplates on Hepburns are not a bad shape, but they're so thin and small that heavy recoiling cartridges make for sore shoulders. when I did the restoration on the one Dale engraved I had Dave Crosno build me a stock set with a larger buttplate area to accept a Sharps buttplate. Even with warm .45-70 500 gr. bullets it's much more comfortable.
I built a trigger spring ffrom .050" piano wire on my Hepburn and the trigger pull is now about 2-2.5 lbs. My set triggers on the other Hepburn are wonderful! I've never adjusted them in all the years I've owned it, and they have seen a fair amount of shooting.