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I build them for my rifles. Take a Brownells Redman liner, make a cartridge case to fit your chamber out of steel, bore it to the liner size. Soft solder liner in, face it off, chamber and headspace as normal to your rifle. Trim to about 16 inches and crown the end.
Then get teflon tubing the exact size to fit on the liner and slip into the bore, just slip fit tight. McMaster has the tubing in a great variety of sizes. The tubing I cut to 1 inch long chunks. Slip them onto the liner with about 1.5 inches between them.
I then make a spare breech block in rimfire. On a rolling block, it takes about 3 minutes to change from centerfire to rimfire. More on a stevens or High wall, although on a high wall you can do the Pope rimfire/centerfire conversion lever pin.
In practice, slip the liner into the barrel, and shoot. If it doesn't meet your accuracy expectations, push the liner out with a cleaning rod, and move the end spacer slightly on the liner, and try again. You'll soon find a sweet spot where it shoots well. The spacers must be uneven distances apart. If they are spaced more or less regularly, the liner will not shoot.
My liners reliably do about 1.25 inches at 100 yards for 5 shot groups, using federal bulk pack ammo from Wal-Mart and my Axtel peep and aperture sights. The smallest group I ever shot was about .350 on my steel chicken target, but I've never repeated it. I've had a few others of .7 to .75.
I have a small snap-on extractor that I use to pry the empties out. I grind a small divot at the 12 o'clock position of the chamber, to start the blade under (a craftsman extractor would work about as well, and cost $12 less). Just look in the screwdriver department for a small flat screwdriver about 3 inches long.
I've been thinking about building a dedicated .22 rolling block. I have an original #1 sporter action left in my cabinet, and a 3 groove benchmark 30 inch octagon barrel on my rack. Maybe this winter.
Dave
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22 lr insert (Read 3128 times)
