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Danth48
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50-70 Maynard
Mar 4th, 2011 at 6:25pm
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Hello All:  I've got a 50-70 maynard civil war gun with the last patent date of 1859. I went by the drawings in Cartridge Conversions for the 1865 Maynard and made a case. Unfortunately, the gun will not close. Either the rim needs to be thinner, or the rebated end needs to be turned down more. Unfortunately, that dimension is not listed. Anyone know the proper rim thickness and the diameter of the rebated end? Thanks, Dan
  
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frnkeore
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #1 - Mar 4th, 2011 at 7:22pm
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Dan,
Close the action and put a feeler gage between the standing breech and the barrel. Make the rim .001 - .003 under that dimension. 

Frank
  

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Danth48
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #2 - Mar 4th, 2011 at 10:54pm
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Yes, that is what I did and found the rim thickness should only be .032" which is quite a bit thinner  than what was stated in the Cartridge Conversion book. Anyone know what the flash hole diameter should be? Thanks, Dan
  
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Green_Frog
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #3 - Mar 5th, 2011 at 12:37pm
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Danth48,   

If I am reading this thread correctly, you have a Civil War vintage percussion Maynard, right?  If this is right, and rather than reinventing the wheel (at great effort and expense) why not contact one of the sutlers that provides brass for North-South Skirmishers?  Several folks make turned brass cases in both standard and reduced capacity styles at a pretty reasonable price.  I would try Dixie GW, S&S, and Lodgewood for your needs.  I shoot the reduced capacity loads in my repro 1st Model and love them.  BTW, if you need any good bullet moulds for that rifle/carbine, the N-SSAers are getting those made as well.  You might drop by their website at;

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and scan through the resources available there.

Froggie
  
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Danth48
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Re: 50-50 Maynard
Reply #4 - Mar 6th, 2011 at 11:57am
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That's a great site! I've been teaching my son to run a lathe, and this was a great project for him and me. He's turned out some nice cases. We just need to know the size of the flash hole. Also, how is the hole sealed so the powder doesn't fall out?  Thanks, Dan
  
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32 ballard xl
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #5 - Mar 6th, 2011 at 1:58pm
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I happened to buy a Maynard catalog from Abby at cornell.  It says to use a light smear of the same super secret lube that they sell that the factory used to lube the bullets.  And, no, it doesn't say what it is. Cry
  

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henpeckedmuch
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #6 - Mar 6th, 2011 at 3:59pm
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First of all your case isn't a 50-70. Or at least you better hope it isn't or you will feel like your arm is being torn off when you touch that thing off. 
If it is a civil war model 2 it is a 50 caliber percussion. It takes a bullet of around 515 -517 weighing at around 300gr.And from 22 to 40 gr. of Black Powder, depending on the type of case you produced. 
Believe me, I've hunted with these guns and you will not believe the damage done on a deer from 50 to 100 yards with that load.
Like froggie suggusted I kwould buy at least one case from a respected suttler and use that as a pattern for what your cases are supposed to look like. They are made in two types. The first one is for target lite loads and has a reduced capacity allowing only about 24 grs of powder. These work very well but the original sights will not line up well for elevation and a higher front sight will have to be arranged.
The second type is full capactity and takes about 40 gr of powder (I use 3F) I have found that the original first sight leaf will normally be on at 100 yds with that load. The other two sight leafs will be close on at 300 and 500 yds (I think that is right But, I haven't shot much at those distances with the carbine). 
Your carbine with the right load and bullet can be far more accurate than you would imagine. It's been known to put 5 shots off hand into one ragged hole at 50 yds. And it isn't too hard to hold minute of grapefruit at 100 yds.
  
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henpeckedmuch
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #7 - Mar 6th, 2011 at 4:07pm
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The hole in the bottom of the case is the smallest wire drill you can find. There is no need to seal the case after loading even the smallest grain powder will not fall thru it. I have left these cases loaded for up to a year, maybe longer and have never had any problem firing them. I use only fresh made shells for competition of course but at close ranges of 50 and 100 yards the practice targets never seem to mind that the shells were made last year.
Again, bread down and spend $3 or 4 dollars and buy a shell for a pattern. I suggest Lodgewood suttler from the N-SSA
  
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Deadeye Bly
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #8 - Mar 6th, 2011 at 5:27pm
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The .031" rim thickness is correct. The overall case length should be about 1.200" with a 3/4" dia rim and a .545"-.546" body diameter. The flash hole should be .040" diameter, a #60 drill or 1mm drill will work. The correct bullet diameter should be from .515" up to .520". Best results will most likely be .001 over groove diameter. Civil War bullets were as large as .525". This should get you shooting.

There were two 50/70 chamberings in the later sporting model Maynards and they were not interchangeable. The 1873 50/70 chambering is quite rare and was a straight case slightly larger in diameter and longer than the Gov't cartridge. 1882's were chambered for the 50/70 Gov't cartridge. The Civil War guns were not 50/70's.
  
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henpeckedmuch
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Re: 50-70 Maynard
Reply #9 - Mar 8th, 2011 at 8:06pm
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The 50-70 loads were in Maynard RIFLES, with long heavy barrels, not carbines. If you shoot many full house loads in your carbine. You will know it. 
My carbine with 310 gr bullet and somewhere around 40 grs of 3F has more apparent recoil than my 1882 Maynard in 38-55 with 330 gr bullet and  46grs of 3F.
And, my #3 barrel Highwall in 38-55 shooting the same load as the 1882 Maynard is a pussy cat compared to the Carbine Maynard and full house loads.
I'm not trying to say the carbine is unmanageable, I hunt with mine. I just wouldn't want to shoot a 50 or 100 round competition with full house loads. and I wouldn't want to shoot it at all with 50-70 round recoil.
  
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