Anyone know who makes a small light flatback schuetzen buttplate.   I just received a a nice old Ballard (my first of that breed) that was built up for use in NRA 22 rf silhouette.  It has a basic straight stock, but made with VERY nice walnut.  it has a simple black gutta percha (I think) buttplate.  I want to use it for offhand and would like to fit a hook buttplate without messing with the wood or its finish.

I would take a regular Schuetzen plate and grind it down to fit the external dims of the old stock. CPA has lots of plates.

Use a filler between the stock and plate to accommodate the curve.  Depending on the amount of curve you might be able to make the filler out of wood but it's easier to mold one out of epoxy resin. Or resin first then copy it in wood.  This is essentially how a modern free rifles plate works, flat butt ,spacer to adjust, and curved plate.

One potential problem might be length of pull. most Hook plate stocks are shorter than flat plate rifle stocks.

Compromise might be a rife style curved plate, I am using one on a CPA set up for our clubs "no Schuetzens" ram bash rule. It hangs better than a flat plate but is not considered a hook.  Not a lot of curve were it fits to the stock but still enough on my shoulder to settle well offhand.  

If the gun is light, and if built for NRA rules modern rifle matches it has to be, the regular curved rifle plate may be better than a Schuetzen plate.  Flat plates are no good for offhand that's sure.

Boats

DWS, you'll have to be careful with tropical hardwoods.  Most have so much oil in them that they don't work well with either stock finishes or epoxies.  Both rosewood and ebony are problem woods, don't know about bubinga.   

If you go with a curved metal buttplate, like a small schuetzen plate, the length of pull is measured to the inside of the curve, so you would need spacers at the top & bottom (heel & toe) of the plate.   

David

Filling those gaps is relatively easy.  Glue/screw your fillers to the plate, surface off the filler blocks to where you've got a surface that matches the stock flatness, scribe around the stock to the filler blocks/plate and shape the pieces off of the stock.  Match up your hole spacing for your buttplate screws and drill & countersink for them.  Piece o' cake!   

David

DWS8130, Why not fit a #3 Stevens plate from CPA (very slight curve), then replace the present butt plate with a new plastic butt plate that you can match the curve of the #3 by dipping it in boiling water. You might even be able to do it to the existing plate.             good luck,      ...MIKE...