Bibbyman, when you heated it to red hot and quenched it in water, you made it as hard (and brittle) as possible.  If you get it welded up, you can again heat it to red and dip it in Casenit or Quick Hard to case harden it as per their instructions and quench it in water again to make it as hard as possible.  The next step is to polish it up and heat it slowly in dim light until it is about a straw/brown color and then let it air cool.  That wil make it less brittle but still tough.  I'm sure there are others here with more experience than myself and they may be able to add/correct my thoughts.  Hope this helps.

Regards, Joe

Hmmm............. that looks like a part that would lend itself to being made on a multi-axis machine-tool. Anyone have a drawing that they would share and I'll run it past my multi-axis friend. Due to the vagaries of each rifle, final fit would be up to the gunsmith, as with the cast piece.

Does anyone have a picture of the Ballard two piece extractor that they could post.  My visual imagination doesn't quite make it. 

Thanks in advance. 

As for heat-treating: 8620 heated in a salt bath hardens rather well.
I did a  couple of 2" x .375 coupons that went Rc 44 quenched in water. 
Not quite sure where they would go in oil. Weed burner heats a small pot of salt (NaCl) rather nicely. 

I have a DZ Arms 2 piece extractor in my 22 rf high wall it works great and is easy to install. Mike

OK, so that slides in the slot and cams the empty up and out.  Or does this presume some fitting. 

From the geometry of that thing it looks like it is WEDM. Spendy but nice. 

Sorry to be so dense. 

Thanks John,  I was dragging my feet thinking about the next step.  

John,  would it make the fitting process easier if I remove the extractor spring?   It's a real bugger to get back into place.

Work-holding is always a problem unless you can suspend it in a very strong magnetic field. Of course, then you have the problem of swarf sticking to everything.

Since the pivot hole is .1935 I use a #10 shcs to hold the bugger down. Not perfect since you really need a second point to secure it.   

Clean up what you can with a mill or a file then slap it on the surface grinder for finish. 



The Tools International/ASSRA Archives dwg of the Winchester Single Shot has a nice drawing of the extractor.  Your $10 plus postage gets you  dimensioned drawings of the whole thing including several stocks.  These are good enough to enlarge to D size if you want.   (Shameless plug for the archives). Just wish they had more drawings ... like the Stevens Favorite.

I've been working on the extractor project as the mood hits me. This afternoon I fitted the extractor in the action. I went slowly, a couple of file strokes at a time. I used Dykom to show where the extractor was binding. I got a lot of practice assembling and disassembling the action. I stopped when the action cammer over stiffly. 

The next step will be drilling the hole for the lever pin.