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Firing pin steel (Read 17036 times)

JBBOOKS Ex Member	Firing pin steel Jan 17^th, 2009 at 6:11am	Print Post
	What would be the best grade steel for making firing pins and other action parts? Where can one buy this type of steel in small amounts? THANKS JB


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irish66 Oldtimer Offline Posts: 546 Location: newbraunfels Joined: Apr 7^th, 2007	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #1 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:06am	Print Post
	jb, i have used a lot of stuff, the most common was o1, i have used a2 and not heat treated it and it has worked very well . i even useda piece of 416 stainless, and it is still doing the job. 8620 would work then heat treat it. i even used some inconel and it worked ok. irish
	« Last Edit: Jan 17^th, 2009 at 8:58am by Jim_Borton »

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harry_eales Ex Member	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #2 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:19am	Print Post
	Hello JB, Drill Rod is probably your best bet for a good steel for firing pins, that is readily available in small amounts, at a reasonable price. Here in the U/K Drill Rod is known as Silver Steel and is sold in 13" lengths. It is very easily heat treated after machining. For other parts I would suggest Gauge Plate, which is a tool steel, available in various widths and thicknesses and also sold in 13" lengths. Model Engineering Suppliers should be able to provide you with both rod and plate. Harry


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Mozark Junior Member Offline Posts: 63 Location: Mon. National Forest Joined: May 1^st, 2008	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #3 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 8:00am	Print Post
	in the US drill rod, both oil and water hardening, is available in myriad diameters from suppliers like MSC in 36" lengths. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000081503037 A2 is air hardening, and O1 oil This is very high quality, fine grained steel, and is ideal unhardened for small parts like firing pins, screws and etc. If you're going to fool around with hardening, get enough to play with to learn what's too brittle for the part in question. Then again I've turned firing pins out of 60 common spikes, then carburized (case hardened) them. MM


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38_Cal Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2253 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Joined: Apr 27^th, 2005	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #4 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 2:01pm	Print Post
	When possible, I prefer to make the pin body out of annealed O-1 drill rod and the tip out of 1095 spring stock, soft soldered together with at least 1/4" of tip in the body. I use the same procedure when re-tipping broken firing pins. David Montezuma, IA

	David Kaiser Montezuma, IA
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westerner Frequent Elocutionist Offline deleted posts and threads record holder. Posts: 12221 Location: Why, out West of course Joined: May 29^th, 2006	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #5 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 2:22pm	Print Post
	The longest lasting and toughest steel Ive used for firing pins is piano wire available at most hobby shops. I drill the old firing pin then Locktite the correct size wire. I also use piano wire for false muzzle pins. It's tough and doesnt need any hardening. Joe

	A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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Mozark Junior Member Offline Posts: 63 Location: Mon. National Forest Joined: May 1^st, 2008	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #6 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 4:49pm	Print Post
	Thanks David for the valuable tip. A great "ah-ha, now that's an elegant solution" moment. MM 38_Cal wrote on Jan 17^th, 2009 at 2:01pm: When possible, I prefer to make the pin body out of annealed O-1 drill rod and the tip out of 1095 spring stock, soft soldered together with at least 1/4" of tip in the body. I use the same procedure when re-tipping broken firing pins. David Montezuma, IA


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Brozbows Junior Member Offline Posts: 84 Location: Manitoba Joined: Jun 6^th, 2006	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #7 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:10pm	Print Post
	When I converted one of my Martinis to 22/357 Maximum, converting from rimfire to centerfire, I just used the shank from a HSS 1/16" drill bit for the new pin. Grind old pin off the body, drill new location, loctite or epoxy in, then grind the tip to length and profile. Works great and no problems after hundreds of shots and many dryfires. Darryl
	« Last Edit: Jan 19^th, 2009 at 2:34pm by Brozbows »

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davew Ex Member	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #8 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:48pm	Print Post
	The 1/16" drill bit technique is the same that I used for my Ackley version of the 22/357 Max in my Cadet. Works fine. davew


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40_Rod Frequent Elocutionist Offline Extremism in the persuit of accuracy is not a vice Posts: 4285 Location: Knoxville, TN Joined: Apr 20^th, 2004	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #9 - Jan 18^th, 2009 at 10:11am	Print Post
	Westerner is right When CPA was having problems with their firing pins I sent my rifle back to Paul 8 or 9 times for a new pin. Finally I took one of the bodys faced off the breal and drilled it out and inserted a piece of .060 music wire and JB welded it in. that was better than 10 years ago and I am still using the same pin. 40 Rod


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John Taylor Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 1839 Location: Lewiston, ID Joined: Oct 23^rd, 2006	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #10 - Jan 18^th, 2009 at 11:28am	Print Post
	Most of the time I use pre hardened spring steel that comes from the wrecking yard. There are several sizes that are used as torsion bars to hold the trunk and some hoods open. It's getting harder to find a wrecking yard that will let these go for a couple buck. Machines easy with carbide and makes good firing pins and screws, no heat treat. I was always a little worried about using drill rod and heat treating as this make them brittle and break easy. The pin should be hard enough to take repeated hammer blows but not so hard as to brake with a dry fire. I have used piano wire to repair pins using Loctite to hold them together, works great. Most hobby stores carry the stuff.

	John Taylor Machinist/gunsmith
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Chuckster Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2296 Location: Colorado Joined: May 15^th, 2008	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #11 - Jan 18^th, 2009 at 10:20pm	Print Post
	FWIW, Have made several firing pins from oil hardening drill rod that seem to work. Harden, quench in oil, draw temper to blue at the tip and brown at other end where the hammer strikes. Never had one deform or break. Double temper if you are concerned. 1095 would probably work as well. Chuck


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Chuckster Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2296 Location: Colorado Joined: May 15^th, 2008	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #12 - Jan 18^th, 2009 at 10:54pm	Print Post
	Still talking--To reply to the other part of the question, other small parts, sears, hammers, links, etc. I have had very good luck with ordinary mild steel well casehardened with Kasenit. Easy to machine, no distortion, no brittleness, good wear hardness. Would not use it for for large parts like receivers or blocks. Chuck


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Schuetzendave Frequent Elocutionist Offline Retired Ex-Shooter Posts: 4216 Location: St. Albert, Alberta Joined: Jan 28^th, 2005	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #13 - Jan 19^th, 2009 at 12:58pm	Print Post
	Hard concrete nails work pretty good too, but are more difficult to machine.


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Fred Boulton Oldtimer Offline Posts: 801 Joined: Jan 6^th, 2007	Re: Firing pin steel Reply #14 - Jan 19^th, 2009 at 2:49pm	Print Post
	Have used needles from needle-roller bearings in the fast with great success in cases where other fixes resulted in repeat breaks. Fred.


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