Page Index Toggle Pages: 1 Send TopicPrint
Hot Topic (More than 10 Replies) Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barrel. (Read 6679 times)
Brozbows
Junior Member
**
Offline



Posts: 84
Location: Manitoba
Joined: Jun 6th, 2006
Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barrel.
Dec 31st, 2008 at 5:54pm
Print Post  
I'm planning to build a cast bullet breech seater target rifle with what I have, on the cheap. I have the means to do all the work myself and this is just for fun, I'm not trying to build a competition gun to win at EG.  Tongue

This is an effort to cut down on the jump and vibration caused by the current Ruger setup..... I'm planning to remove the forend hanger, on one of my #1s, and fix a flatspring to the barrel (like the old highwalls). The ejector will be mounted to the barrel as well. Then a shorter throw hammer.

I know this has been done before but how have the results been? 

Flat spring versus coil mainsprings? 

Thoughts on hammers?

Not to sound rude but I would appreciate only first hand experience and suggestions... no theories please, yes, we all have them  CoolRoll Eyes.... I want to know what has worked or not, for better or worse.

This should be fun:-)

Best Regards,

Darryl
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
fallingblock
ASSRA Board Member
*****
Offline



Posts: 651
Location: Wisconsin
Joined: Apr 16th, 2004
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #1 - Dec 31st, 2008 at 7:57pm
Print Post  
I have removed the hanger and ejector from the face of my action and installed a Wolf main spring and Zika hammer. As I was in a hurry about 15 years ago I just used the original hanger and screwed it to the barrel. The rifle shot better but I have lost track of my records prior to the change over. 
As the rifle is it shoots very well but I have gone to shooting Traditional original rifles. The Ruger got me a fair number of medals at Etna Green as well as in ISSA matches. If you want I can take some pictures put it is not very pretty but some day I will make a block to hold the main spring. For others that I have done for others I made a block jut never got around to doing one for my self.
Cheers,
Laurie
  

Cheers,
Laurie
ASSRA Secretary & Archivist
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #2 - Dec 31st, 2008 at 8:23pm
Print Post  

Darryl,
I don't have any experience cutting off the hanger on a Ruger # 1, but do have some  experience shooting Ruger # 1's in matches for the past 5 years and tuning them for accuracy. 

Like you I have noticed that on a bench when dry firing with an empty cart. in the chamber some 1-V's do jump a bit, and the lighter # 1's jump even more. sometimes as much as an inch or so at 100 yds, this is not easy to see with a low power scope but very easy to see with a 20 X or more scope, I use a 24 X so the jump is easy for me to see. What I did was install a light weight Speed Hammer, after that all the jump and vibrations seemed to stop, or at least I could not detect any movement, and as long as I could not detect any movement I stopped doing any thing else in that area.

I've been playing around with # 1's for more than a few years and I've never heard of anyone cutting off the hanger to reduce jump and vibration. Maybe I don't hang in the right places.  Smiley

My thoughts on hammers is that in my experience you should not lighten one below 350 Grs. if you go much below that you may end up with poor ignition, and that's not good for accuracy.

One important thing I learned in all my shooting of # 1's is the # 1 barrel is subject to some weird barrel harmonics, and anything that you may hang on it can/may up-set things in the accuracy dept.   

I would like to learn more about the cutting off of the hanger and how much it improves the shooting of the # 1,  hopefully someone that has done this will let us know the before and after results.
  Set Trigger
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #3 - Dec 31st, 2008 at 8:34pm
Print Post  
Sorry,
I did not see the Laurie post till after I sent my post. would love to see some pictures of how this is done. Laurie, I guess if you have done more than one or two of them the work must be worthwhile from an accuracy standpoint ?.
  Set Trigger
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
38_Cal
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 2253
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27th, 2005
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #4 - Dec 31st, 2008 at 11:28pm
Print Post  
No experience with moving the block, but putting a Moulds (Frank Zika) competition hammer and Wolff mainspring into my Schuetzen No. 3 cut down the rifle movement on the bags to a major degree.  The coil spring and fairly open forend to accomodate it are noisy, especially when dry firing, but I never hear it when shooting a match.

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
MI-shooter
Moderator
*****
Offline



Posts: 699
Location: SE Michigan
Joined: Apr 18th, 2004
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #5 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 10:17am
Print Post  
Steve Durren built my #3 (with #1 wood buttstock) by freefloating the hanger from the fore end and glass bedding the fore end to the barrel only (does not touch receiver or hanger). It has a Moulds Inc lightened hammer (not the short throw competion hammer) and a Moyer adjustable trigger. The barrel is a 30" GM tapered octagon (a #3.5 I think) in 32 Miller Short (similiar to a 32/357). It shoots competitivly and does not have the sensitivity of the other #1's I have owned.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
38_Cal
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 2253
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27th, 2005
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #6 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 10:53am
Print Post  
Actually, both Moulds hammers have the same throw.  Additional machining is done on the competition model to lighten it.  The competition version is not recommended for field use other than varmint hunting, especially if you're going after anything with teeth and/or claws.   Roll Eyes   

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #7 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 3:36pm
Print Post  
MI-shooter wrote on Jan 1st, 2009 at 10:17am:
Steve Durren built my #3 (with #1 wood buttstock) by freefloating the hanger from the fore end and glass bedding the fore end to the barrel only (does not touch receiver or hanger). It has a Moulds Inc lightened hammer (not the short throw competion hammer) and a Moyer adjustable trigger. The barrel is a 30" GM tapered octagon (a #3.5 I think) in 32 Miller Short (similiar to a 32/357). It shoots competitivly and does not have the sensitivity of the other #1's I have owned.


MI-shooter, 
This is interesting but I'm not sure I understand what you wrote when you said that your hanger is free floating from the fore end, and then the fore end is glass bedded to the barrel only, ( does not touch receiver or hanger ). If this is so what does the fore end screw on to ?. 
Set Trigger
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Brozbows
Junior Member
**
Offline



Posts: 84
Location: Manitoba
Joined: Jun 6th, 2006
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #8 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 7:28pm
Print Post  
Thanks for all the info so far!

Another question... Are the Moulds hammers a shorter throw than the OEM Ruger?

Regards,

Darryl
« Last Edit: Jan 2nd, 2009 at 4:29am by Brozbows »  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Brozbows
Junior Member
**
Offline



Posts: 84
Location: Manitoba
Joined: Jun 6th, 2006
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #9 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 8:31pm
Print Post  
Breaking my own request of refraining from offering theories Tongue....

The culprit of the Ruger vibration is caused by a few features of inherent design. Here's what I think..... On most hammer rifles, the hammer fires in a path that is more or less directly inline with the bore. With the Rugers, the hammer throw is nearly perpendicular to the line of the bore from underneath. Thus, it's direction of inertia is also perpendicular. 

The hanger, mainspring and strut..... The hanger system for the mainspring is maybe the worst offender. I believe shortening the hanger and mainspring strut may be a big help. Or, as we are discussing, remove the hanger altogether. I see no need for such a long mainspring strut, especially if it's on the hanger as it's length amplifies any vibrations.

By the sounds of other peoples successes in replacing the OEM hammers and mainsprings, and or anchoring the mainspring to the barrel, I believe my theories may be on the right track. 

Let's carry on and try to improve these great rifles!

Any other thoughts?

Regards,

Darryl
« Last Edit: Jan 1st, 2009 at 8:39pm by Brozbows »  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #10 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 11:43pm
Print Post  
Brozbows wrote on Jan 1st, 2009 at 7:28pm:
Thanks for all the info so far!

Another question... Are the Moulds hammes a shorter throw than the OEM Ruger?
Regards,
Darryl


Darryl,
Both of the hammers made by Moulds ( Frank Zika ) have the same throw as the OEM Ruger hammers. I'm not sure what MI-shooter ment when he said he did not have the short throw competion hammer, like 38_cal said, both of Moulds hammers have the same throw.
   Set Trigger
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
38_Cal
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 2253
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27th, 2005
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #11 - Jan 2nd, 2009 at 9:34am
Print Post  
I had some good discussions with Frank Zika when he was bringing his hammers onto the market.  He mentioned that most instances of misfires he had seen in Ruger single shot rifles were able to be traced to short throw hammers, and disappeared when full throw hammers of the same weight were installed.  His hammers come with a new Wolff mainspring, but some rifles might shoot better with his hammer and the original spring.  Depends on the individual rifle.  My No. 3 does just fine with the Wolff spring...when the nut behind the butt is properly adjusted!   Wink

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #12 - Jan 2nd, 2009 at 12:23pm
Print Post  
Brozbows wrote on Jan 1st, 2009 at 8:31pm:
Breaking my own request of refraining from offering theories Tongue....

The culprit of the Ruger vibration is caused by a few features of inherent design. Here's what I think..... On most hammer rifles, the hammer fires in a path that is more or less directly inline with the bore. With the Rugers, the hammer throw is nearly perpendicular to the line of the bore from underneath. Thus, it's direction of inertia is also perpendicular. 

The hanger, mainspring and strut..... The hanger system for the mainspring is maybe the worst offender. I believe shortening the hanger and mainspring strut may be a big help. Or, as we are discussing, remove the hanger altogether. I see no need for such a long mainspring strut, especially if it's on the hanger as it's length amplifies any vibrations.

By the sounds of other peoples successes in replacing the OEM hammers and mainsprings, and or anchoring the mainspring to the barrel, I believe my theories may be on the right track. 
Let's carry on and try to improve these great rifles!

Any other thoughts?
Regards,
Darryl


One other way to dampen any hanger vibration that you may have is to install a Hicks Accurizer or a tension screw at the end of the hanger. This will also help dampen any barrel vibration 

I may be wrong on this but I don't think the hammer position on the Ruger is any more of a problem than the hammer position on most any other rifle that has a swinging hammer, and if anything the relationship between the hammer and firing pin may be in better alignment than a lot of other very popular swinging hammer rifles.
  Set Trigger

  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
MI-shooter
Moderator
*****
Offline



Posts: 699
Location: SE Michigan
Joined: Apr 18th, 2004
Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #13 - Jan 2nd, 2009 at 1:01pm
Print Post  
Set_Trigger
A recoil lug was attached to the barrel and is also used as the attachment point for the fore end. The hanger is only used for the mainspring and ejector mounting. Otherwise, the hanger does not touch the fore end at all.

I thought that Zika's hammers had two different strokes, but I could be wrong. Anyway, my hammer is not the competition model and I did not use the stronger mainspring he provides. After thousands of shots, not a single misfire.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Set_Trigger
Ex Member


Re: Removing Ruger #1 hanger - mainspring to barre
Reply #14 - Jan 2nd, 2009 at 1:51pm
Print Post  

MI-shooter,
Ah, that's how it's done. That explains it, thanks. 
I also have shot thousands of shots, with both the competition speed hammer and the standard speed hammer, and I cant tell the difference between the two of them, and like you have not had a single misfire with eather of them.
Set Trigger
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send TopicPrint