I have never found it to be a problem shooting fixed ammo in either my 25-20SS or my 32-40, In fact I used a standard Clymer reamer to chamber my .32-40 and I'm sure it was made for fixed ammo but it shoots breech seated just fine. Getting the Hiwall rebarrelled will cost in the $600 neighborhood unless you can do some work yourself. there is plenty of stock designs around and you may even be able to find Double set triggers, or convert to single set trigger if the rifle currently has single trigger. As far as getting too wrapped up in the ultra technical details remember to walk before you run. A rifle of a standard chambering and configuration will occasionally shoot to 1/4 MOA with a good shooter and good ammo.  You probably should not count on more then that for your first year or two of shooting.

Fred;
The gentlemen that I talked to at Friendship (British Citizens) were upset about the pistol regulations. I remember that we were talking about handgun calibers, including bullet moulds).

Thanks for the "heads up".

Dale53

Quote:


QB.... thanx for the response.  It's easy to loose sight of the forest while in the trees however I want to take all precautions so to avoid self inflicted mistakes.  In talking to the locals how are supposedly in the know it is becomming apparent that one must first choose the correct bullet then have the bbl chambered and throated to match that particular bullet.  That makes sense to me.  I guess the question now would be who makes the "cat's ass" accuracy bullet?  Don't really care the caliber, I have yet to purchase the bbl.  I saw somewhere there were reduced loads being used in the 38/55 to the tune of 9 gns of a certain powder.  I would like to keep this rifle subsonic to 200 meters if possible.  Say a launch velocity of 1050 fps with approximately a 200 gn bullet.  Does this seem like a logical choice?  What twist rate would you think would be correct for this application?  Regards.. Gary

QB... you are correct in that I am expressly thinking of a standing rifle however if a dual purpose rifle can be had so much the better.  This is why "spitballing" is so important, it helps to avoid the mistakes and can lead to a finished product that is versitile and cost effective.  Regards...g

  My starter rifle for centerfire is an Uberti Hiwall in 38-55, but it's the single trigger. I worked the trigger to bring the pull down to about 3#, but that's about it. I'm glad I held onto it, because I just read in the Journal that a fellow is doing set triggers for it now. Can hardly wait to get more info on that. 
  As for rimfire, I obtained an original Ballard action and am using that right now, but again, it's a single trigger. I tried smoothing out that trigger, but due to the simple mechanics of the hammer and trigger sear, it's nearly impossible to lighten trigger release without it being dangerous or just plain unreliable ignition. No way to go with that unless it's a real set trigger. 
  The point is, I tried to get into this sport economically, and succeded somewhat, but the rifles as is are not conducive to very accurate shooting. That can be disappointing to some folks. I'm a bit thick headed and will keep looking for some way to overcome these obstacles, but in the end it will still cost me some extra money.
  A good friend who shoots BPCR silouhette purchased an Uberti Hiwall a numer of years ago, and by the time he had a custom DST and Badger barrel installed, he could have purchased any number of good quality rifles ready to go. Ya get what ya pay for! As stated previously, Martini's and BSA's are a great start for the rimfires. Shop around and don't rush into it.
  As for the Ruger #1, I have one in 22 Hornet. I am still trying to get the trigger to be reasonable. I contacted Canjar late last year and got the bad news, and I have no real idea how to get the trigger on that Ruger lightened up. It's a nice sporting rifle at any rate

Bill

Bill, a good gunsmith can reduce your safe trigger pull to a crisp 24 oz with little trouble in both your Ruger and your Ballard.

The addition of set triggers will possibly, maybe even probably, improve your offhand shooting but it will also decrease the rifle's inherent benchrest accuracy. Your benchrest groups will probably be larger by between 8% and 16%, according to my tests involving many different rifles with several different set trigger designs. This is a sensitive subject and I'll probably step on some toes as I have done in the past, but the truth is still the truth and I stand ready to back up my opinion with cash or pink slips. So far, no takers.

Now don't get me wrong, I absolutely love set triggers and almost all my rifles are equipped with some sort or other, both bolt actions and single shots. I love 'em and I use 'em, but also I'm not blind to their shortcomings.

Set triggers were developed for use with crossbows many hundreds of years ago in central Europe, back when materials weren't as hard & sharp-edged and a good crisp sear release was almost impossible to achieve with the ivory nuts and primitive lock designs then in use. Some sort of lighter release was needed for good target (exclusively offhand in those days) accuracy and so the set trigger was born and continued on into the firearms age.

And has been gradually dying out in the past 100 years due to better modern lock designs. The only contemporary shooters who use set triggers today are the nostalgia shooters like the ASSRA and BPCR folks.
Good luck, Joe

MB, I smithed my first No 1 back in 1967 and the triggers of those days were different, much easier to change the pull safely. I got it down to just over 18 oz with safety, but it required much cut-&-try work and many curses. Was worth it though. Nowadays it may require much more work and may not even be possible with the later factory parts.

I like the Kepplinger set triggers but have had to swap out springs occasionally to achieve reliable letoff; I haven't used the non-set Kepplingers but assume they're OK too.
Regards, Joe

     M-B         The Ruger # 1 will accomodate a 1.2"  bbl with out hanger issues.  Not too hard to get to a 13# rifle at 32" long.  Would probably have to look for some place to cut weight.       andyZ