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Scope Design (Read 99675 times)
dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #60 -
Apr 1
st
, 2008 at 12:37am
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Hi OKIEPAWPAW
you can make the reducer cell shorter if you want. the length is not that important. the thing that is important is the front edge of the cell it should not be rounded. try to keep it like a knife edge if possible. the location that i put mine in was in the front between the erector and the objective. i just dropped it in so that it was half the distance between the two lenses. then i looked through the scope to see how dark it was compared with the light out side. if it was too dark i would drill it with the next size bigger drill until i was happy with the brightness of the scope then i took a measurement and drilled the tube and the cell and screwed it together.
I got a unertl the other day and striped it down and cleaned all the old oil and grime from the tube and bases while i was doing this i noticed that my unertl had the reducer between the erector and the cross hairs the next scope that i put together i am going to try the reducer in both spots to see if there are any differences in the amount of light that makes it through the scope before i start drilling the reducer cell to let more light in.
«
Last Edit: Apr 1
st
, 2008 at 12:45am by
»
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #61 -
Apr 1
st
, 2008 at 12:44am
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When you are drilling the tube for the cells turn a piece of brass to fit in the scope and slide it to the place where the tube is to be drilled. this will give you less of a burr to deal with when assembling the scope and will help keep the scope round when clamping it with the vice.
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mwhite49
Frequent Elocutionist
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Posts: 1600
Location: Camarillo California
Joined: Nov 14
th
, 2007
Re: Scope Design
Reply #62 -
Apr 3
rd
, 2008 at 3:39pm
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Hi Deadeye. One thing that may help these scopes out is to paint the inside of the tube flat black when finished. I talked to a fellow the other day that had actualy talked to one of the Davis family- of Davis scopes. He had been an emplyee of Litschert and said one reason that Litschert scopes were so well tought of was the fact that old man Litschehrt used flat black paint on the inside of each one. So I guess that after you were completly finished you could remove all the internals and coat it with a light coat. Who knows it may pay off. Seems it did for Litschert.
Mike
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #63 -
Apr 6
th
, 2008 at 11:13am
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that is not a bad ideal. I was told that there might be a chance of the paint peeling over time and getting lodged in the cells or damaging the cross hairs. the use of fine grit sand paper could be used to ruff up the surface to give it a matte finish. but that is not saying that painting the inside is wrong. try it it might work well and not have any problems for the life of the scope.
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38_Cal
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Posts: 2247
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27
th
, 2005
Re: Scope Design
Reply #64 -
Apr 6
th
, 2008 at 12:26pm
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Solvent clean and dry the stripped interior, then acid etch, rinse, neutralize, rinse, dry and paint. Acid etching the interior will give the paint a more uniform surface to "bite". Use an epoxy based paint, very thin coating, and allow it to fully cure before reassembly...possibly as much as a week if it's an air cured paint.
David
Montezuma, IA
David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
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40-65tom
Full Member
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Posts: 129
Location: San Antonio
Joined: Dec 20
th
, 2005
Re: Scope Design
Reply #65 -
Apr 7
th
, 2008 at 4:28pm
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Having read and reread this thread, I too was excited to get started. My question is how can the same lenses be used in a 34 inch and a 20 inch scope. From my limited understanding the lenses are spaced based on focal length. Can someone explain? anybody actually built one yet?
Tom
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OKIEPAWPAW
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #66 -
Apr 11
th
, 2008 at 2:54pm
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Just finished a scope today. It's useable but not as clear as I would like. My eretor lense a 14MM x 89 FL was a number 2 grade not a number 1 grade they did not have a no ! grade listed. I've got a 14MM x 97 FL no. 1 grade ordered and will see if it makes a difference. I built a 30" scope and everything worked out.
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Paul_F.
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #67 -
Apr 11
th
, 2008 at 3:15pm
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Sweet!
What magnification did it come out to be?
That's still part of the whole optics thing I'm a little fuzzy on... but working my way through it. I hope this summer I'll have the time to try building one!
Paul F.
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OKIEPAWPAW
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #68 -
Apr 11
th
, 2008 at 4:27pm
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Doing the math if i am doing it right it is about a 8 power. As far as I
can tell it is somewhere about that. I don't understand all of it yet.
My Erector lense was a lot closer to the cross hairs than I thought it
would be.
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #69 -
Apr 14
th
, 2008 at 8:25am
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lookin good
what focal length did you use for the eye piece and the objective? Did you have to put a light reducer in it?
Dead_Eye
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OKIEPAWPAW
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #70 -
Apr 15
th
, 2008 at 12:12pm
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I used a 35 for the Ocular, a 89 for the erector and a 279 for the objective. I drilled the light reducer with a 1/8" bit. I'm going to play with that when I get time. It is very clear out to about 30 yards and
gets fuzzy any futher out.
Bob
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #71 -
Apr 15
th
, 2008 at 12:27pm
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you might have to move the erector a little to clear it up.
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OKIEPAWPAW
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #72 -
Apr 15
th
, 2008 at 1:21pm
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I think I will mill the slot thats covered by the sleeve a little longer each way.
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40-65tom
Full Member
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Posts: 129
Location: San Antonio
Joined: Dec 20
th
, 2005
Re: Scope Design
Reply #73 -
Apr 15
th
, 2008 at 2:28pm
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Dead Eye
Can we get a report on the one you built. Perhaps even a picture.
Thanks Tom
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #74 -
Apr 16
th
, 2008 at 10:52am
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I have been working on a load for my 25-20ss that i have the scope mounted on. the scope is working very well i have had no problems with the scope its self the mounts are a little bit of a pain to get adjusted but once i got it adjusted it shot well and it looks so cool on the gun.
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