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tommyauger
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Stevens 44 1/2
Jul 23rd, 2011 at 7:54am
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I have an rifle with a few scratches and has gone into the brown/dull stage?????If that makes since. I am looking to clean the action up in the past I have been the (BUBBA gunsmith) that everyone talks about with the wire wheel and buffer. I want to do this action right and since I have more time than money I would like to spend some time hand buffing this. Were and what do I start this job with. steel-wool sand paper oil cleaner what is the best way to go about this task.... Thanks TommyAuger
  

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Quarter_Bore
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #1 - Jul 23rd, 2011 at 8:26am
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It depends on what you are going for. If you are going to polish it and get it recase colored it is one thing. If you are just going to clean off rust and shoot it the way it is that's another. The first thing to get out of your head is the idea of buffing. Power tools are not involved in any of these processes. I think you should start by using the rifle the way it is.
  
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tommyauger
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #2 - Jul 23rd, 2011 at 10:38am
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I want to get it casecolored.
  

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harry_eales
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #3 - Jul 23rd, 2011 at 12:27pm
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Tommy,

If the original rifle was CC Hardened then you should have it annealed first. Not a thing you can do easily at home. Once that has been done, then you can repair any dings or burrs etc, then, and only then resort to fine abrasive paper backed by a hard surface. Many people use files for this, but I prefer to use a wood or hard plastic strip of the same width of the tape. Should your abrasive come in sheets it may tear easily readily into strips, if not an old 'Exacto' blade will cut it easily.

Starting off with something like 200 grit paper then work down to 400 or even 600, anything finer is not really needed. Polish lengthways and do not do one part one way and another part in a different direction

When polishing, use new sheet lead jaws for the vice holding the work and be sure to wipe any dust off the whole action and the jaws when moving the parts, you don't want to make new scratches on them. Do all the curves first, and then the flat surfaces. As Quarter-bore says, stay well away from buffing wheels and machines. Hand polishing is the only way to go.

If your not sure you are capable of the work, have the smith who will be doing the CC Hardening do it for you, he will charge of course, but he should have the necessary skill and experience to do a good job.

Just my 2 dollars worth. 2 cents doesn't buy you anything these days.  Wink

Harry

« Last Edit: Jul 23rd, 2011 at 12:37pm by »  
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MAD MIKE
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #4 - Jul 23rd, 2011 at 6:32pm
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Tommy, First off, if you're going to recase it, you want it cased the way Stevens did it, in which case you should call, Gail at CPA, she'll tell you how to prep the parts you want recased. I don't think annealing is neccesary since Stevens only cased them a couple of thousands deep & you'll probibly take most of that off prepping it. They do a great job.         ...MIKE...
  
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40_Rod
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #5 - Jul 24th, 2011 at 8:52am
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Sticklers will tell you that stoning is the only way to do it right. There are a couple of alternatives though. If you don,t have a lot of pitting or dings to remove use Emory cloth backed by a flat piece of hardwood. I use a piece about 1" square and 6" to 8" long. The other method is to use the same stick backed with some felt and use lapping compound. no matter what I start with I usually finish with the felt on the stick and 400 grit lapping compound. This will give you a nice even finish that is not too slick for color casing or French grey.
  
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boats
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #6 - Jul 24th, 2011 at 9:36am
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Buy a beater broken single shot shotgun. Pawn shops around here have them in barrels for 20 - 30 bucks. Strip it down and polish out the action by hand. No need for machines unless you want to see what one will do to one side then hand work on the other.  I use a belt sander sometimes, am using one on a cast steel butt plate now, Very sparingly and I have some experience with power sanding.  Generally power is trouble as are Dremel tools.

Use a strong grit to start if pitted 120 is not too much if it's bad. then work up through the grits to get a nice finish.  Most hardware stores don't keep all grits in stock. I get mine from Klingspoors, they have a web site.  Example between 150 and 220 is 180 you don't see it at the corner store.  I recomend 120 150 220 280 320 400. You can go all the way to 2000 if you want to see how much shine can be put on metal. 600 is probably enough though.

Lay the paper out on your bench in grit order. When it won't cut well anymore throw it away, worn out paper is a waste of time and energy Make sure you don't mix up the grit order or leave worn out paper on the bench, makes for more work to go back when you scratch a nice polish with the wrong or worn out paper. Keep the work clean with rags.  Residue makes the job harder

You are looking for flat , so use a backer. Artist gun erasers work good up close to curves and edges .  On the Barrel shoe shine with strips. Allow plenty of time it's not a quick job. 

If you want to see how stones work and have some good flat ones use them once all is polished up nice. Flat on the Stones too. If they are swayed from knife sharpening you can put aggressive grit paper on a sheet of heavy glass and dress it down dead flat. Use some light lube when dressing the stone. I have a couple of stones I use and know how they cut.  But it's trial and error with stones no grit stamped on the back.

If happy with the junk action results then go ahead and sand on that 600 dollar 44 1/2

Boats
  
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hepburn4590
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #7 - Jul 24th, 2011 at 10:18am
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Send it to CPA as is. They'll polish and recolor it.  It will come back drop dead gorgeous.  Well worth every dime they will charge you.
  
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tommyauger
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #8 - Jul 24th, 2011 at 12:05pm
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I would like to thank everyone for their replies. I am going to try hand polishing the action myself I will keep you updated. TommyAuger
  

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marlinguy
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #9 - Jul 25th, 2011 at 9:50pm
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I use sandpaper to polish the finish by hand on all the curved surfaces. Starting with something agressive for pitted areas like 240 grit, then work down to at least 400 grit for final, or even 600 grit. 
When I get all the curved surfaces done I start on the flats by using a piece of 1/4"-1/2" plate that is 8.5"x11" and I spray a little spray glue on the plate, then lay the sandpaper on. This holds the paper nicely, and I move the action back and forth the same direction on both sides. I find it's much easier to keep the parts flat this way and not round over the edges vs. wrapping the paper around a block and sanding the parts.
I use the same progressively finer paper until I get things smooth enough to send for case work.
  

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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #10 - Jul 26th, 2011 at 10:10am
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After day 1
  

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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #11 - Jul 26th, 2011 at 10:11am
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many days to-go TommyAuger
  

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marlinguy
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Re: Stevens 44 1/2
Reply #12 - Jul 26th, 2011 at 10:17am
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Very nice progress the first day. Not that many to go I'd say!
  

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