Hi OKIEPAWPAW
you can make the reducer cell shorter if you want. the length is not that important. the thing that is important is the front edge of the cell it should not be rounded. try to keep it like a knife edge if possible. the location that i put mine in was in the front between the erector and the objective. i just dropped it in so that it was half the distance between the two lenses. then i looked through the scope to see how dark it was compared with the light out side. if it was too dark i would drill it with the next size bigger drill until i was happy with the brightness of the scope then i took a measurement and drilled the tube and the cell and screwed it together. 
I got a unertl the other day and striped it down and cleaned all the old oil and grime from the tube and bases while i was doing this i noticed that my unertl had the reducer between the erector and the cross hairs the next scope that i put together i am going to try the reducer in both spots to see if there are any differences in the amount of light that makes it through the scope before i start drilling the reducer cell to let more light in.

Hi Deadeye. One thing that may help these scopes out is to paint the inside of the tube flat black when finished. I talked to a fellow the other day that had actualy talked to one of the Davis family- of Davis scopes. He had been an emplyee of Litschert and said one reason that Litschert scopes were so well tought of was the fact that old man Litschehrt used flat black paint on the inside of each one. So I guess that after you were completly finished you could remove all the internals and coat it with a light coat. Who knows it may pay off. Seems it did for Litschert.
Mike

Solvent clean and dry the stripped interior, then acid etch, rinse, neutralize, rinse, dry and paint.  Acid etching the interior will give the paint a more uniform surface to "bite".  Use an epoxy based paint, very thin coating, and allow it to fully cure before reassembly...possibly as much as a week if it's an air cured paint.

David
Montezuma, IA

Just finished a scope today.  It's useable but not as clear as I would like.  My eretor lense a 14MM x 89 FL was a number 2 grade not a number 1 grade they did not have a no ! grade listed.  I've got a 14MM x 97 FL no. 1 grade ordered and will see if it makes a difference.  I built a 30" scope and everything worked out.

Doing the math if i am doing it right it is about a 8 power.  As far as I
can tell it is somewhere about that.  I don't understand all of it yet.
My Erector lense was a lot closer to the cross hairs than I thought it
would be.

I used a 35 for the Ocular, a 89 for the erector and a 279 for the objective.  I drilled the light reducer with a 1/8" bit.  I'm going to play with that when I get time.  It is very clear out to about 30 yards and
gets fuzzy any futher out.
Bob

I think I will mill the slot thats covered by the sleeve a little longer each way.

I have been working on a load for my 25-20ss that i have the scope mounted on. the scope is working very well i have had no problems with the scope its self the mounts are a little bit of a pain to get adjusted but once i got it adjusted it shot well and it looks so cool on the gun.
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