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Scope Design (Read 99633 times)
Paul_F.
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #15 -
Mar 10
th
, 2008 at 1:36pm
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Kinda surprised that the editor (40_Rod, his profile is here
(You need to
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)
Hasn't already asked..
Give him an email or PM, and I'll bet he can help you get it squared away!
I'd love to see it in the Journal with a bunch of pics and drawings!
Love seeing it HERE too!
Thank you for sharing it with us!
Paul F.
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J.D.Steele
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #16 -
Mar 10
th
, 2008 at 2:09pm
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What Paul said, and
plenty
of it!
The grammar part of writing is easy, I find the hard part is making the narrative
INTERESTING
as well as clear enough for the lowest common denominator to follow it easily.
IMO you have succeeded, and
quite
well. Please develop it further!
Regards, Joe
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38_Cal
Frequent Elocutionist
Offline
Posts: 2247
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27
th
, 2005
Re: Scope Design
Reply #17 -
Mar 10
th
, 2008 at 2:52pm
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I'll put in my dos centavos worth...write this up as an article, PLEASE! Having it in article format will make it much more valuable than it already is...and plenty of photos, too!
Do you have stock in the company that sells the lenses? I think that they'll be getting a surge in sales!
David
Montezuma, IA
David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
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Paul_F.
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #18 -
Mar 10
th
, 2008 at 3:41pm
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LOL!
I was thinking about that...
I can see the guys at the optics company... "Geez...we sold 6 of these lenses in the last YEAR, and now all of a sudden we have order for 29 sets this WEEK! ".
Paul F.
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #19 -
Mar 11
th
, 2008 at 12:43am
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I wish I had stock in the company.
I have been writing this up in word and then cutting and pasting the sections into the forum. I am on my 3rd page right now. It is a lot easier than typing 3,000 characters and then hitting the backspace key too many times and loosing all the information that was just typed. I did that twice.
I am a little slow sometimes.
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38_Cal
Frequent Elocutionist
Offline
Posts: 2247
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Joined: Apr 27
th
, 2005
Re: Scope Design
Reply #20 -
Mar 11
th
, 2008 at 10:04am
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Hey, Dead-Eye, you're doing great on this writing stuff! I'm even starting to understand this optical stuff...and that takes some doing!
David
Montezuma, IA
David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
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J.D.Steele
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #21 -
Mar 11
th
, 2008 at 10:45pm
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Quote:
Kinda surprised that the editor (40_Rod, his profile is here
(You need to
Login
or
Register
to view media files and links)
)
Hasn't already asked..
Paul F.
Silence sometimes speaks volumes.....
Regards, Joe
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Paul_F.
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #22 -
Mar 12
th
, 2008 at 12:32am
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Or, given that he's made one post in the last 10 days.... he might just be a bit busy.
Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar... as it were.
Paul F.
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40_Rod
Frequent Elocutionist
Offline
Extremism in the persuit
of accuracy is not a
vice
Posts: 4285
Location: Knoxville, TN
Joined: Apr 20
th
, 2004
Re: Scope Design
Reply #23 -
Mar 12
th
, 2008 at 8:09am
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Dead Eye
I sent you a PM. If you did not get it let me know and i'll send another.
40 Rod
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #24 -
Mar 13
th
, 2008 at 12:24am
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Hi 40_rod got your PM and sent you one back.
Thanks
Dead_eye
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #25 -
Mar 15
th
, 2008 at 8:03pm
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Now that you have the measurements for each of the groove locations marked on the paper it is now time to secure the lenses to the cells. This can be done in several ways. They can be attached to the cell walls with the use of a bead of epoxy, the use of a threaded sleeve or the lens can also be held by a sleeve pressed into place and then apply a small amount of loctite so the recoil will not jar it loose. If epoxy is used to hold the lenses in place then great care should be taken in making sure the epoxy is only placed on the side and that none of the epoxy gets on the center part of the lens. This could damage the lens and when the scope is assembled the image could be blurry or distorted at all ranges. If the use of epoxy is desired then try using a disposable eyedropper to place a fine bead of epoxy around the edge of the lens where it touches the cell. When the epoxy dries it will spread out some and cover a small part of the lens leaving the rest clean and clear. The use of threads is another way to hold the lenses in place. It is a lot more work and is very time consuming to get everything threaded and fitted together but if you do break or damage a lens it is a lot easier to replace it. The use of a sleeve to hold the lens in place works well and is not as complicated as a threaded insert. First turn the sleeve so that it fits snug in the cell. It needs to be at least a ¼” long. Once the outside fits the cell then the inside diameter can be first drilled and then bored until the wall thickness is .062 or a 1/16” thick remove the burrs without rounding over the edges of the sleeve. Once a sleeve is finished it can be installed into the cell. Remove the o-ring that is holding the lens in place and then insert the sleeve if you cannot push it all the way in a small hammer and a wooden dowel or a piece of brass turned slightly smaller than the outside of the sleeve can be used to gently push the sleeve against the lens. Gently shake the cell to make sure the lens is held tightly and there is no rattle sound. If you here a rattle in the cell then tap on the sleeve and gently shake again until it stops making noise. When the rest of the sleeves have been made and installed use a small bit of loctite to help secure the sleeves in place.
To Be Continued:
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OKIEPAWPAW
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #26 -
Mar 15
th
, 2008 at 11:50pm
Print Post
Dead Eye
Thanks for the post. Looking forward to the rest of the instructions.
Can a scope shorter than 34" be made? Say 18"
I would like to try to make one in the next couple of weeks.
OKIEPAWPAW
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #27 -
Mar 16
th
, 2008 at 6:53am
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I don't see why not. all you would do is set the distance on the angle iron and lay out the cells the same way. i will try this later this week and get back to you.
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #28 -
Mar 17
th
, 2008 at 8:57pm
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Work on the tubing that will become the scope body can now be started. First thing to do is square up one edge of the tubing. Once the tubing is square and smooth a measurement needs to be taken for the overall length making sure to leave it a little longer so that end can be filed square and smooth to the final length. Make sure to remove the burr from inside and out but do not sand or polish the outside part of the tubing at this point. On the outside of the tube there are lines that run the length of the tubing from the die that is used to form the tube. These lines are straight enough to be used as a reference line to drill the holes for the screws that will hold the cells. Pick a line that is easily seen. Once you are satisfied with the line take a straight edge and lightly scribe a line over top to ensure the line is straight. Now take the paper that has the measurements and copy the distances to the tube by making a cross line at each location that the groove of a cell will be. Remember that the measurements are from right to left. If a miss drilled hole is a concern then one hole can be drilled at a time and that cell drilled and tapped. To help with the drilling of the tubing take a scrap piece of brass or steel turned to the size of inside diameter. This will help control the burr and when the vice is tighten on the tube it will not be squeezed out of round making a flat spot on the tube. To hold the cells in place use four 6-40 gun screws that are 1/8” long if longer ones are purchased or on hand they can be and should be shortened. The screws should be flush or about flush with the inside of the cell. If the screws stick into the scope a little bit that is still ok they won’t be seen for the most part. Once the hole is drilled and the cell is slid into place the groove that was turned into the cell helps locate the correct location.
Use a steel pick to slide the cell back and forth to locate this line. Once found the cell is now ready to be drilled with the proper size drill bit for the tap that is being used. When tapping the brass cell do not use any tapping fluid. It is hard to get the oil off the lens once tapping is done. The other cells should be done the same way. The cross hair insert is a bit different this should not be drilled all the way through. If it is drilled through this will not hurt anything and can still be used. The only concern is that there will be a burr on the inside and this will be seen in the scope and it is hard to remove the burr without damaging the cross hairs. With the cross hairs in the tube rotate the insert so that one of the hairs is about center of the hole drilled in the tube. When this placement is found carefully mark the location of the hole to be drilled on the insert taking care not to move the cross hairs one way or the other. Now that everything is drilled and tapped disassemble and gently blow the shavings from the cells. Do not use a cloth or a finger to wipe the lenses clear. Flush the cell in warm water with a small amount of soap. Let the cells air dry then inspect for chips that were not removed. If some chips are found still in the cell then rinse again and check to see if the chips have been removed. When everything has been removed and the parts are dry spray the lenses with an anti fog reading glass cleaner and use a few Q-tips per lens to clean and dry the lenses. Now take a loading rod with a large jag and run a few patches through the tube to remove the dust and oil from drilling. A few passes of a piece of scotch-brite can be run through the inside of the tube to dull the surface. Then reassemble the scope and take a look through it across the back yard at several different ranges. If the scope is unfocused and everything looks white or gray then there might be too much light shining through the scope. If this is the case then take the extra insert that was made earlier in the article, remove the objective lens and slide this in a few inches replace the objective and check to see if the picture clears. Take a measurement with the stick that was used when pushing the erector lens mark the location of the insert on the stick and transfer it to the outside of the tube add 3/16” to the measurement that has been marked on the tube already. Then drill and attach the insert to the tube. If the view through the scope is clear but now darker than the light conditions outside of the scope the insert can be drilled out to a larger size and replaced then rechecked to see if it is brighter. This process takes some time to get right. When drilling, step up to the next drill size and check. Do this until the scope is about the same or a little less than the light outside. If the hole is too large the scope will get a gray ring around the outside of the lens. Then another insert will have to be made and drilled with a drill bit that is two sizes smaller than the last drill bit used on the old insert.
«
Last Edit: Mar 17
th
, 2008 at 9:03pm by
»
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dead_eye
Ex Member
Re: Scope Design
Reply #29 -
Mar 17
th
, 2008 at 8:58pm
Print Post
Now that everything is placed into the scope it is now time to make a slot to adjust the cross hairs and a slot for the erector to move back and forth a little bit. The cross hair slot only needs to be 3/8” long. The erector slot can be a ¼” long. A small round file can be used or a thin flat file on edge is another way it can be done. If a milling machine is handy a small end mill works well. Just remember not to flatten the tube. When both slots are made the next thing to make is two thin bands to cover the slots created for adjusting the erector and the cross hairs. The band that covers the erector slot must be long enough so when adjusted the inside of the tube is not exposed to the light. The cross hair adjustment ring only needs to be a little bit larger than the slot. When making the bands knurl them first then bore them to the outside diameter of the scope then remove the burr, drill them both in the center and attach them to their locations and try to adjust to make sure they move back and forth without hanging up.
Now it is time to finish the outside of the scope. Disassemble the scope set the parts aside and with the tube place it in the vice without flattening the scope. Take a piece of 220 grit emery paper grab it with both hands and begin to sand the tube like you were shining shoes. Keep rotating the part once to get all sides cleaned and smooth. Once it is sanded smooth the tube can now be blued or browned to the desired finish. Do this to the bands also. Once the outside is finished lightly oil and reassemble the scope and place the bases on it and put it on a rifle and admire all the handy work that went into making this fine scope.
Happy Shooting.
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