What Paul said, and plenty of it!

The grammar part of writing is easy, I find the hard part is making the narrative INTERESTING as well as clear enough for the lowest common denominator to follow it easily.

IMO you have succeeded, and quite well. Please develop it further!
Regards, Joe

LOL!
I was thinking about that...
I can see the guys at the optics company... "Geez...we sold 6 of these lenses in the last YEAR, and now all of a sudden we have order for 29 sets this WEEK! ". 


Paul F.

Hey, Dead-Eye, you're doing great on this writing stuff!  I'm even starting to understand this optical stuff...and that takes some doing!   

David
Montezuma, IA

Or, given that he's made one post in the last 10 days.... he might just be a bit busy.

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar... as it were.


Paul F.

Hi 40_rod got your PM and sent you one back. 

Thanks 
Dead_eye

Dead Eye
Thanks for the post.  Looking forward to the rest of the instructions.
Can a scope shorter than 34" be made?  Say 18"
I would like to try to make one in the next couple of weeks.
OKIEPAWPAW

Work on the tubing that will become the scope body can now be started. First thing to do is square up one edge of the tubing. Once the tubing is square and smooth a measurement needs to be taken for the overall length making sure to leave it a little longer so that end can be filed square and smooth to the final length. Make sure to remove the burr from inside and out but do not sand or polish the outside part of the tubing at this point. On the outside of the tube there are lines that run the length of the tubing from the die that is used to form the tube. These lines are straight enough to be used as a reference line to drill the holes for the screws that will hold the cells. Pick a line that is easily seen. Once you are satisfied with the line take a straight edge and lightly scribe a line over top to ensure the line is straight. Now take the paper that has the measurements and copy the distances to the tube by making a cross line at each location that the groove of a cell will be. Remember that the measurements are from right to left. If a miss drilled hole is a concern then one hole can be drilled at a time and that cell drilled and tapped. To help with the drilling of the tubing take a scrap piece of brass or steel turned to the size of inside diameter. This will help control the burr and when the vice is tighten on the tube it will not be squeezed out of round making a flat spot on the tube. To hold the cells in place use four 6-40 gun screws that are 1/8” long if longer ones are purchased or on hand they can be and should be shortened. The screws should be flush or about flush with the inside of the cell.  If the screws stick into the scope a little bit that is still ok they won’t be seen for the most part. Once the hole is drilled and the cell is slid into place the groove that was turned into the cell helps locate the correct location.
Use a steel pick to slide the cell back and forth to locate this line. Once found the cell is now ready to be drilled with the proper size drill bit for the tap that is being used. When tapping the brass cell do not use any tapping fluid. It is hard to get the oil off the lens once tapping is done. The other cells should be done the same way. The cross hair insert is a bit different this should not be drilled all the way through. If it is drilled through this will not hurt anything and can still be used. The only concern is that there will be a burr on the inside and this will be seen in the scope and it is hard to remove the burr without damaging the cross hairs. With the cross hairs in the tube rotate the insert so that one of the hairs is about center of the hole drilled in the tube. When this placement is found carefully mark the location of the hole to be drilled on the insert taking care not to move the cross hairs one way or the other. Now that everything is drilled and tapped disassemble and gently blow the shavings from the cells. Do not use a cloth or a finger to wipe the lenses clear. Flush the cell in warm water with a small amount of soap. Let the cells air dry then inspect for chips that were not removed. If some chips are found still in the cell then rinse again and check to see if the chips have been removed. When everything has been removed and the parts are dry spray the lenses with an anti fog reading glass cleaner and use a few Q-tips per lens to clean and dry the lenses. Now take a loading rod with a large jag and run a few patches through the tube to remove the dust and oil from drilling. A few passes of a piece of scotch-brite can be run through the inside of the tube to dull the surface. Then reassemble the scope and take a look through it across the back yard at several different ranges. If the scope is unfocused and everything looks white or gray then there might be too much light shining through the scope. If this is the case then take the extra insert that was made earlier in the article, remove the objective lens and slide this in a few inches replace the objective and check to see if the picture clears. Take a measurement with the stick that was used when pushing the erector lens mark the location of the insert on the stick and transfer it to the outside of the tube add 3/16” to the measurement that has been marked on the tube already. Then drill and attach the insert to the tube. If the view through the scope is clear but now darker than the light conditions outside of the scope the insert can be drilled out to a larger size and replaced then rechecked to see if it is brighter. This process takes some time to get right. When drilling, step up to the next drill size and check. Do this until the scope is about the same or a little less than the light outside. If the hole is too large the scope will get a gray ring around the outside of the lens. Then another insert will have to be made and drilled with a drill bit that is two sizes smaller than the last drill bit used on the old insert.