Keep in mind that I am far from an expert.  Also, keep in mind that Ballard was a very customer friendly company and you could get about anything you asked for, so exceptions to standard model configurations are not infrequent.  With that said, in regard to the second rifle, the standard lever for a No. 9 was the four finger loop with a single trigger.  Stocks were uncheckered and rather plain.  On the left side of the action, how many lines of writing are present, two or three?

Since you have developed an interest in Ballards, you would be well served to obtain Joh Dutcher's book titled "Ballard, The Great American Single Shot Rifle".

Phil

Mike
Generally, two line adresses indicate a milled action while 3 line addresses indicate a cast action.  By far, the milled action is stronger and much more desireable.  Cast action were reserved for low power cartridges like rimfires.

No. 9's had the forged, milled actions, therefore, a two line address.  If the rifle has the 3 line address, it isn't a No. 9.  What caiber is it?
Phil

Mike
I am compelled to caution you in regard to the rifle with a cast action and in caliber 32-40.  As you know, Ballards are a weak action and personally I would never shoot one with a cast action in a 32-40 with smokeless powder.  If I did shoot one, it would be with black powder and loads held to the mild side.  Ballard only chambered the cast action rifles for pistol and light rifle cartridges and this was during the black powder days. 
Be careful, you only have a set number of eyes and fingers.
Phil

Phil,

Then I am guessing it is a #2 w/DST's? Guess in the future if I have the barrel fit better or shimmed  to tighten it up, it would be better to line it to a pistol caliber. Or better yet, have a new barrel fit and and hold on to the other for a forged rcvr. project.

Still no positive ID on the other (w/scope)?

Mike

JMHO, but if they were MINE, I'd put the Win Model 52 bbl on the cast action w/DSTs and have a killer rimfire rifle, then use the .32-40 bbl and the other action (which being a pistol grip action, IS also a forged action, right?) and have a shootable CF rifle that way.  If BOTH actions are cast, this strategy loses its reason. 

BTW, I've seen some very smooth single trigger Ballards, so you could still have a good shooter out of that.

Again, JMHO 
Froggie

Mike
On the second rifle, the single trigger one, is there a screw in the breech block just in front of the hammer?

I sent you a PM.

Phil

Brown Ballards were made in some larger centerfire cartridges with cast frames. I don't recall the caliber, 40-60 peabody? Maybe. It is believed this is why forged frames came about, they had reached the limits of the cast frames and were shooting loose. Of course, ALL of this was in the BP only days. I have a large caliber Brown barreled reciever, when I did a chamber cast it is some kind of large tapered case. Unfortunatly, it did not have the breech block with it, But if I do anything with the gun it will become either a .22 by lining the big old octagon barrel, or a 25-20SS.
The guns you have there are nice! Be careful and have fun shooting them. Frog has the right idea if the frames work out.
Merwin
P.S. The ballard bug is a nasty bug with no know cure! However, I used to have the Trapdoor bug but was able to beat it, by catching the ballard bug. I fear the bug that can kill the ballard bug! I sometimes get a case of the Maynards!

Mike,
I can't in full confidence answer that question, but I am sure someone else will. What I do know is at the N-SSA, where I shoot a lot, several guys shot the old civil war era ballards. To meet the rules they have to be converted to centerfire BB with a retractable firing pin. In talking with some of the guys and a couple people who are approved to convert them, they measure the bore to determine if the gun will become a 45 colt or a 44. We can ONLY shoot black powder. There are many reports of these guns cracking the frame after several hundred rounds, some never do it, some sooner. Keep in mind these are all pre marlin ballards with external tangs. Ball, Ball & Williams, etc. But they are cast actions. I have an original Ball Merwin & Bray that is not converted and won't be. It is in the .44 rinfire it was designed to shoot and I shoot it from time to time and have never had a problem. I suspect my loads are on the light side. I love to shoot it but have never shot it in anykind of competition.
I have heard of guys putting 38-55 barrels on the old Merwin Bray actions and not having a problem. Personaly, I think it is a horrible idea. If a .45 colt loaded with black powder can crack an action, I am quite sure a 38-55 could.
Just be careful, maybe one of the gunsmiths on this forum can look at them for you once you get them and tell you your best options. Some of these guys REALLY know ballards and what they can and can't do. 
Stating the obvious here, 1st, take care to not damage yourself, 2nd, becareful to not damage such fine old rifles.
I hope to see you get them shooting, it's a shame when an old rifle isn't shot, just my opinion!
MerwinBray
P.S. the MerwinBray name by NO MEANS make me an expert, it is just a name I choose becaused of my interest in the original ballards and that companys history and dealings in the Great COnflict.

Mike,
you are right. IDing a gun is simple! I shoot 250's all the time! Just google it!
( I WISH! )
Merwin

I sure don't claim to be a Ballard expert, but I have what I believe is a very nice #3 that has a flat top.  I wish it had a concave one.  It is, and always has been a .22.

Brent

Get my 2 cents in also. Having been a long time collecter of Ballards, I would suggest that you have a #3 action with #6 1/2 wood and buttplate. I bet if  you looked under the forearm at the back, you would see a relief cut for the bottom lug of a Rigby barrel. Also note a quick look at the firing pin: If its round its centerfire, if its flat its rimfire/centerfire, if no screw to hold same its a .22rf. Don