Mr. Skate:

No worries. You have not done any damage. You have, however, gone about it the hard way.

If the action and associated pieces parts need serious cosmetic work and are going to be re- casehardened, your fingers will thank you if you anneal the action before you polish. The soft steel is much easier to work with.

I generally draw the hardness the old fashioned way, the way the old buffalo hunters did. I take the action up to the kitchen and put it in the oven and run it through the oven's self cleaning cycle. It will come out looking a bit rough but quite soft, and you will find it a lot easier to work with. 

After polishing and rehardening it will be a good as new.

Best of luck,

Glenn

SSDave,   I agree with an exception. I have found that by using chalk dust/whiting that there is far less air available to the frame & hold heat as well.   Classic Guns Inc. seals the parts in a metal container packed with charcoal dust --- heat to 1400 and allow container to set until charcoal has burnt out & all is cool. FWIW,   Ken