I poured a tin nosecap on a rifle several years ago and got pretty good results (beginner's luck no doubt.). I want to do it for another rifle but with a more elaborate pattern. Is there a preferred temperature to use when pouring the tin?  How hot can or should I get it before I pour? I have no idea how I did it last time, blind luck, no doubt. I do not want to scorch the wood, obviously, but I want the metal to stay fluid long enough to completly fill the cut out. Thanks, Joe S

Joe, If you are referring to a pewter tip, heat the metal well above its melting point, and then start inserting round maple toothpicks in one at a time as it begins to cool.  Leave in for 5 seconds and then remove.  If it's charred black, it's too hot.  Continue inserting toothpicks one at a time until the last one shows a brown cooked look and you're ready to pour.  Make sure there are at least two anchor points in the wood so that it stays attached.  Have a helper heat the barrel and forearm with a hair dryer at the same time which helps keep the pewter from getting voids or wrinkles in it.  If you're going to use straight tin, then these directions may not apply as the melting points are probably different. Track of the Wolf has a pound of pewter with excellent directions for about $6.  Good luck!

one more thing to try, color in the area to be poured with a graphite pencil to help "flux' the pour. it will help in completely filling in  the mortise.....an old herschel house trick. this is how he pours pewter nose caps on his fine flintlocks......blue

Lead-free pewter will take a better shine that will last longer.  I've used it once, have usually used block tin...back in the days when it was really, really cheap!

David
Montezuma, IA