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Joe_S
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reblue options
Dec 30th, 2005 at 12:20pm
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  I found a cut down trapdoor that I would like to refinish.  I will be putting a tin nosecap on, and want to refinish the metal . One option I can handle on my own is to brown the metal, have done that on several muzzleloaders using several different products. I am considering cold blue, but am not sure there are any out there that will give a satisfactory result on a whole rifle. I also am aware of the new painted on finishes, but have no experience with them at all.  Are there any cold blues out there that would look respectable and be reasonably durable? Thanks! Joe S
  
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Dale53
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Re: reblue options
Reply #1 - Dec 30th, 2005 at 2:02pm
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Joe_S;
Brownell's "Oxpho-Blue" is excellent for a complete blue job. It is extremely durable and does a FINE job. Be sure and get the "Gel" instead of the liquid. Both work but the gel is much easier to use. I have used both and give them high marks.

ANY finish job depends on proper preparation. If YOU do your job, the product will do its job.

Dale53
  
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Brent
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Re: reblue options
Reply #2 - Dec 30th, 2005 at 3:20pm
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Joe,
check out (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links); You can follow the directions or modify to fit your needs.  But it's all there to do a really fine job if you want to do it yourself.

Brent
  
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hst
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Re: reblue options
Reply #3 - Dec 30th, 2005 at 4:25pm
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Brent:

This is good to hear. I just sent a barrel to Mr. Kay for bluing and am looking forward to seeing how it comes out. 

We talked some about Single Shots and Black Powder. Mr. Kay mentioned some guy from the university in IA that he had dealt with who actually went  hunting elk and such with black powder and paper patched bullets! I allowed as how I had heard of that guy somewhere...

Glenn
  
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Brent
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Re: reblue options
Reply #4 - Dec 30th, 2005 at 7:55pm
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Glen,
Wasn't me.  I don't work the U of I.  I'm in Ames - when I'm working; ttat's ISU country.   I do do the other stuff though.  Hunting elk and mule deer and antelope with a Sharps or Highwall and bp/ppb's is just too much fun to pass up.  I suppose one university is like another though - too an outsider... 

The blueing they have, I like very well.  I do my own however and I modified their directions by deleting the sweatbox.  I can't sit around for 4 hrs and boil and recoat.  But I can do it about every 12 hrs - once before work and once before bed.  So, I just hang the barrel in my basement which is quite dry and cool.  I get a smoother blue if I make it go slow, and that's what I want.  12 hr in a sweat box would start to look sandblasted.   

Anyway, just a suggestion for you do-it-yourselfers.   

Brent
  
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JDSteele
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Re: reblue options
Reply #5 - Dec 31st, 2005 at 12:01am
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I agree with Dale about the Oxpho-Blue. Have found that three applications give as fine a blue job as any hot blue I've ever done, at least on fresh-cut & freshly-degreased steel that's been my result so far. More coats are necessary of course for a degraded surface finish.
Good luck, Joe
  
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hst
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Re: reblue options
Reply #6 - Dec 31st, 2005 at 12:22am
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Brent:

Mr. Kay did say Ames, I miss remembered the school. In any event I knowed it was you. 

Mr. Kay said he was working on a formula designed to be used in a dry environment. When he described it the technique sounded remarkably like the Niedner Blue as described in Dunlap's book.

Thanks for the info on not using a box. This sounds more like my speed. I'm a  gonna try it. But for now we shall see how it looks when Mr. Kay does it.

Glenn

Glenn
  
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