Cam,

     That question is almost as open as "What kind of finish can be applied to my stock?"  The kinds of case coloring range all the way from lightly applied surface (dis)coloration to a surface hardening several thousandths thick which also happens to provide color as well.  The various techniques are part science and technology, part art, and frankly, part black magic it seems    If you find someone who does what you want and need, you have been most fortunate.  I don't think anyone will tell you that the COLOR of a case coloring job is all that durable, that's why many otherwise pristine early rifles have somewhat muddy or faded looking colors, but the HARDNESS of a well done color case hardening job does persist.  That is the quick story of my experiences with case colors, others may feel otherwise...YMMV, of course! 

Froggie

cam,

I'll have to say that I personally haven't seen any of those snake oil treatments that hold a candle to the real thing.  I have tried most of them(except for cyanide) and haven't been satisfied with any of them.  If I can't have the real thing I would personally rather have a different finish.

However,  I suggest that you look at a few examples of this guys work, and if you like it then do it.  Don't let my opinions keep your rifle from looking the way you want it to.   

I haven't seen any of these finishes that are more durable than the real thing, some are much worse.  Lacquer can help it last but nothing I have found will keep it there forever.

good luck

Brad Hurt

Cam, the technique Froggie described is the one used to actually surface-harden steels that don't contain much carbon or other alloying agents, such as those used in the old rifles of the 19th century. This technique will over-harden most all modern alloy tool steels, and should be used on only those steels that have a very low carbon content. I don't know what action you're using but this would be a big consideration if you did have access to a practitioner of the real hardening process. As it is, you probably don't have to worry much about ruining your action's hardness.

Like some of the others, I've seen some very attractive fake 'coloring' jobs & also some real uglies. You pays your money & you makes your choices (takes your chances?). BTW the cyanide jobs that I've seen didn't show many colors, very subdued.

Two things to do to keep your colors vibrant: a coat of clear lacquer, thinned, and keep it OUT OF THE SUN! This applies to the real thing, not necessarily to the fake 'colors'.
Good luck, Joe

Hi Brad, Froggie, Montana Charlie & Joe

Thanks for your input. Much appreciated... Is interesting to hear a little about the original process. The real case hardening treatment isn`t available, other than exporting the action to the US, so unfortunately not an option. Otherwise I would jump at it... So the fake option or bluing are my 2 main choices right now... 

Frog - yes I am Down Under, ranching near the south west coast of the country, the great state of Western Australia. Your explaination of the process is most helpful. Unfortunately we don`t have the resources and services available that you guys have... I wish!

Joe - Good to hear from you again... My action is a modern Browning Low wall. I didn`t realise cyanide was a process... Thanks for the warning on modern alloy steels... I suspected the sun might be an issue on all Case Coloring - no shortage of it here! Tho this is the mildest start to summer in 40 years. I think we will miss out on the 100f + Xmas day this year.

Brad - I will definitely look at his work next time I get to the city, prior to making a decision. He is about the best stock maker here and a true perfectionist. So anything he does wouldn`t leave the shop unless he was totally satisfied. But I will see for myself shortly... Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say

Montana Charlie - "part art, and frankly, part black magic" well explained... I bet a group of guys spent many frustrating hours comming up with the formula they perfected so well all those years ago.

I wanted to hear some opinions and also what methods have been used and get as much basic grounding as possible on the finishes before I have anything done. I have invested far more into this project than planned and waited a long time for its completion, so don`t want to spoil it with a poor finish... Thanks and a very merry Xmas to all...

Cam...

Hi Cam!
Well I've got a little experience with some of the fake processes, and they generally hold up even less than the real casehardened colors. I had a friend who overcleaned his Ruger Vaquero, and it now has a frame that is "in the white"!
On an interesting note, I had a friend who showed me a old single shot that he had done some fake case colors on. It took very close examination to tell they were faked, and I was amazed! He actually took thinned down enamel paint, in various colors, and did his own swirls and colors on the receiver. You could have knocked me over with a feather when he said it was paint! He put a coating of clear enamel over the finish, and so far it seems to be holding up well, the last time I saw the gun.
Guess there's always another way to do everything!

Hi Glenn,

An outstanding job, many thanks... I know of Mialls gun Shop and will contact them asap. Has me a little perplexed as to why the small number of single shot rifles I have seen made in this country have sent their actions to the US to be Case Coloured? And why our countries top stock maker hasn`t been able to get it done here and took the artificial route. I better check this mystery out as getting the real deal than an artificial colour would be better... Will let you know how I get on..

cheers,

Cam...

All I can say is - WOW! At least it's all that I will say on this forum. Considering that a case-color job in the US costs $100-300, that makes me wish I could move to OZ & open my own case-coloring business, it ain't that hard..............

Guy Lautard's excellent book Strike While the Iron Is Hot gives info on how to do a good job of case-coloring/hardening in one's own back yard, as well as info on barreling a Sharps-Borchardt. Brownell's, in thier Gunsmith Kinks series, gives details of the procedure and they also sell a furnace as well as an entire kit to outfit one's shop. Wish I had the disposable income.
Cheers, Joe