All I use is 50/50 Bee's Wax and Bear Grease seems to work with Black and Smokeless powders. 
Laurie

SPG for BP. for the smokeless loads mix of 50% beeswax, 40% Crisco and 10% Canola oil.
Bob

I have had good luck with my Frog Guano lube.  The exact proportions have changed a bit from batch to batch, but the basic recipe is;

     40% Beeswax (unrefined)
     10% Carnauba Wax
     40% Anhydrous Lanolin
     10% Mink Oil 

I then add a couple of small blocks of green candle dye (which is itself in a Paraffin carrier) to get the desired color.  The mink oil started as a joke because of a comment in one of Charlie Dell's lube articles comparing lube to a fur coat on the bullet...and what better fur coat than MINK?  (Oh well, I guess you had to be there!)  I use the stuff they sell in little plastic jars for boot dressing...I don't know what else is in it, but it works.

     I apply this lube with one of Charlie's Pope style lube pumps and try to keep a couple of sticks poured and wrapped in foil in my shooting box.  I have also used it with a Lyman Lubri-sizer to good effect.  This lube has worked rather well for me with smokeless powder, especially the IMR 4759 and H-108 I shoot the most.  It is OK with BP (as I would have expected) except in the very hottest and dryest conditions, during which I am now starting to use Dale53's formula for Emmert's.

     All the usual disclaimers apply, YMMV, prices slightly higher in the South and West, don't eat yellow snow, etc.   

Froggie

I use Emmert's home mix with a slight change:
50% pure beeswax, 40% Crisco (the original solid shortning that looks like lard), 5% Canola Oil, and 5% Anhydrous Lanolin all by melted volume.

This is a very effective black powder lube and a very effective schuetzen smokeless lube.

High velocity smokeless loads I use NRA Alox/Beeswax mix (non schuetzen use).

For years I used Javalina Schuetzen Lube (the old Smiley's Formula) but the first batch that I recieved after Alox changed hands was different, Not as good. 
I swiched to Charlie Dells #59 C I have had good luck with it in both the pan and the pump.

40 Rod

Steve,

  Here's the formula for Charlies 59C lube as taken from his book.

Beeswax  35%
Paracin 9  20%
Ivory Snow 05%
Castor Oil  10%
Anhydrous Lanolin   20%
Lead Stearate  10%

The formula for 36MA is slightly different than #36 and #36M in that Synaceti 125 has been exchanged for the Spermaceti and the Lanolin has been increased from 1/2 part to 1 part.

Lithium Stearate  1 part
600 W Worm Gear Oil  1 part
Beeswax  1 part
Synaceti 125  1 part
Anyhydrous Lanolin  1 part

  There are some specific instructions as to how to put both of these lubes together. Not particularly complicated but they both appear to have to be done in a specific order. No mention in the assembly instructions says whether it can be used for BP. I would suspect not. If you want to try these I can post the instructions, or better yet,you should really get the books. Vol. 1 goes into a lot of detail on lubes. Probably more than you want to know.  IT has some work on BP in Vol. II which Charlie was kind enuf to say I contributed to.

PETE

For those recipes using Ivory Snow flakes as an emulsifier try replacing with the new Ivory Snow liquid concentrate.

It eliminates the hassle of trying to get the flakes to melt and stay in suspension. It also allows you to remelt the lube for pan lubing without worrying the soap will settle out of suspension.

Another ingredient to consider adding to your favourite recipe is metal conditioner which works its way into the metal pores and reduces chances of lead adhering to the bore.

The best mix of oils and waxes is dependent on the shooting condtions encountered. Of course the harder and stickier mixes are best for temperatures over 100 degrees F.

Need a stickier wax.
Try toilet bowl sealing wax.

Need a softer lube then increase your Crisco lard or Canola oil.

Need harder lube then increase the amount of bees wax.

Why are people adding lanolin to their lubes?