I have had them hung by NOT allowing the forend to touch the hanger. This is done by attaching a lug (available from Brownells) to the bbl and attaching forend screw to the lug .  This allows the forend to bed against the bbl but also allows it to Not touch the frame or hanger.  Great results.   Ken

My custom 32/357 Ruger #3/#1 done last year by Steve Durren has the forend glass bedded to the barrel and is clearanced to the reciever and hanger. Accuracy wise it seems to be a winning combination and is consistant over the year I've had it. One neat trick he did was to inlet and glass into the forend a recoil lug behind the mounting block on the barrel. To the outside, it is completely invisable and can only be seen when the forend is removed. He did that to be 99% (nothing is 100%  )that it stayed put.  Ed

Frank de Haas performed an interesting experiment in which he bedded the forearm of one Ruger No 1 rifle in two different ways, to compare the results. The first way was to bed the forearm to the hanger, with the barrel free-floating except for a set screw between the hanger and barrel. The second way was to fab a bedding block for the barrel and attach the forearm to it with the hanger free-floated & the forearm not touching the frame. Both gave equally satisfactory results, with essentially the same accuracy level.

The secret appears to be to not mix the two approaches, i.e. don't let the forearm touch the hanger and the bbl at the same time.

I personally now prefer the bbl-mounted approach, since it's been my experience that the Ruger hanger is too flexible. Resting the hanger-bedded forearm at different points appears to change the POI, presumably because of the varying bounce on the bags. Adding the set screw between the hanger and bbl appears to lessen this bounce effect, but it's still there to some degree in my tests.

One of my gunsmith friends has installed a much more rigid hanger in place of the original, which appears to improve things noticeably. This is a lot of work while the alternative barrel bedding block method is fairly simple in comparison.

If I had a Ruger, I'd use the set screw method first since it's the easiest, then test the results. Varying the screw tension from light to heavy, testing at regular intervals, I may find that the heaviest tension gives the most consistent groups. If results weren't to my liking, then I'd do the bedding block method.

All my personal rifles use the bedding block method or a variation of it.
ttfn, Joe

I don't like the little tuning fork vibrating on the action. So I cut the hanger off and make a block to put on the barrel for the main spring. The forend is then screwed to the barrel. The result is much like the Winchester Single Shot and shoots very well. This method has been used by many people I got the idea from Norm Lammers many years ago.
Cheers
fallingblock

fallingblock;
How is this block attached to the barrel?

Thanks fallingblock and others who responded.