Bulseyetom wrote on Sep 28^th, 2026 at 12:40pm:


I was always told not to shoot set triggers without setting them. So I don't try it to see if that's a myth.
I adjust set triggers by turning the adjustment screw in and then trying to set the rear trigger. Once it wont set I back it out a half turn and try again until it sets. At this point you can turn it in or out a 1/4 turn at a time until it's where you like it.

I’m not sure why anyone would say not to shoot a set trigger unless set?  I’ve done it many time with this style trigger.

I would like to hear from someone why that would be.

I don’t believe, at least in the case of a #5 Ballard, it would make any difference.

This picture is actually a #5 trigger assembly that I had to fix.  There are no springs attached in this picture.

Arrow:
#1 is pointing to the front trigger blade.
#2 is the rear trigger or setting trigger blade.
#3 is the set trigger sear.  It hooks under the front trigger when set.
#4 the adjusting screw.

I want to use the point where the two trigger blades form a vee, as a reference to the “approximate” place they will each contact the hammer sear, when each is used to release the hammer.  They will each make contact somewhere along its blade.

With this assembly.
There is no connection between the triggers and the main hammer sear except when the rifle is fired.   
There is also no connection between the triggers until the rear trigger is pulled, setting the triggers.

The rear trigger is loaded by a spring when set.

When the assembly is set, and you pull the front trigger, it releases the rear trigger springs energy and the rear trigger blade jumps up and trips the hammer sear.

When unset.  If you pull the front trigger back until it contacts the hammer sear, which is normally correct, then continue, it should trip the hammer sear.  There is normally free travel before making contact with the sear.  There actually “has to be some” for a rifle to be safe!

When you set the rear trigger, it’s sear hooks under a small ledge on the front trigger.  The screw #4 just adjust how much the sear can engages.  Adjusting it in to far will not allow the sear to engage.  Adjusting it clear out, will allow full engagement.  The further in the screw is turned, reduces the amount of creep in the front trigger before it releases, making it less safe, but nicer for target shooting.

No matter where the screw is turned too, I still would never carry a rifle while hunting with the triggers set.  While you can adjust the creep, the rear trigger spring is not as strong as the main spring for the hammer, and will not pull as hard because of this.

I should add this is all my thoughts and understands of how this trigger system works.  And, anyone please correct me if you feel I am incorrect about anything.
Bob

One of my old shootin buddies, Dave Thorsen was a service rifle competitor. Whenever we met at the range and I had one of them fancy Schuetzen rifles with me, Dave just had to shoot it. Dave couldn't use a set trigger so he wouldn't set the trigger. I told him several times he had to set the trigger or the trigger spring would break. Well, he broke the trigger spring. I said Dave, you broke my trigger spring. No I didn't he would insist. Dave broke my trigger spring on two different occasions and both times denied it. I didn't hold it against him because he's Norwegian. A two fisted Lutefisk eatin Norwegian. 

Loaned him a Longbranch to shoot in the matches at Puyallup. Dave broke the extractor in that rifle.

westerner wrote on Sep 28^th, 2026 at 7:45pm:


That's what someone way back at Ballard Rifle Co. told me when I ordered a trigger spring for a DST Ballard. The person said if it was shot enough without setting the trigger it would eventually break the trigger spring.