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Hot Topic (More than 10 Replies) Cleaning a Steven's 44 1/2 (Read 679 times)
gnoahhh
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Re: Cleaning a Steven's 44 1/2
Reply #15 - Sep 1st, 2026 at 8:48am
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oneatatime wrote on Sep 1st, 2026 at 12:02am:
Gee, it only takes a minute, just pull the barrel and be done with it.


True, except for A) when the barrel doesn't budge, and B) when an owner doesn't wish to disturb the "homogeneity" of a winning barrel/action relationship. 

For me, if there's no need to take down a takedown (and there truly rarely ever is) I tend to leave them alone. 
  
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craigster
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Re: Cleaning a Steven's 44 1/2
Reply #16 - Sep 1st, 2026 at 11:39am
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Use a pull through.
  
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oneatatime
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Re: Cleaning a Steven's 44 1/2
Reply #17 - Sep 1st, 2026 at 2:02pm
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the 44 1/2 was designed as a switch barrel. If the barrel won't budge it was not machined correctly. If the barrel set screw is torqued to the same pressure, it will be correct. I switch between 2 of my 4 every month. Now if you only have one barrel and keep the torque at the same setting, all will be well and I can understand not wanting to touch anything. I would not play games with the hammer. I would drop the block before I took a chance on doing something that might screw up the sear.
Again, a 22 rod will clear it and the tang sight (like mine) lowered with the eyepiece not touching the wood. Do you have a pull through? Might try that if all else fails. If you are determined not to use a good 22 cleaning rod you might try a long 5/16 Delrin rod. It is going to drag but won't hurt anything doing it. Just make sure it is long enough for the handle to clear the stock at full run. Once again, a good long 22 rod.
  
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gnoahhh
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Re: Cleaning a Steven's 44 1/2
Reply #18 - Sep 1st, 2026 at 6:53pm
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oneatatime wrote on Sep 1st, 2026 at 2:02pm:
the 44 1/2 was designed as a switch barrel. If the barrel won't budge it was not machined correctly. If the barrel set screw is torqued to the same pressure, it will be correct. I switch between 2 of my 4 every month. Now if you only have one barrel and keep the torque at the same setting, all will be well and I can understand not wanting to touch anything. I would not play games with the hammer. I would drop the block before I took a chance on doing something that might screw up the sear.
Again, a 22 rod will clear it and the tang sight (like mine) lowered with the eyepiece not touching the wood. Do you have a pull through? Might try that if all else fails. If you are determined not to use a good 22 cleaning rod you might try a long 5/16 Delrin rod. It is going to drag but won't hurt anything doing it. Just make sure it is long enough for the handle to clear the stock at full run. Once again, a good long 22 rod.


I certainly get all that, and like I said "to each his own". There is another factor, and that is that there are Stevens rifles out there that have been re-barreled, a lot of them, such that they are drawn up with more torque than allowable for unscrewing by hand. (It would seem that most of said rifles have passed through my hands at one time or another, and no I never felt handicapped by the phenomenon.)
  
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