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Babydriver
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Bluing
Yesterday at 7:11pm
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What is the best way to blue metal?
  
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KFW
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Re: Bluing
Reply #1 - yesterday at 7:50pm
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Wow! do you realize how deep and vague that question is?
  
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Oldman1950
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Re: Bluing
Reply #2 - yesterday at 7:58pm
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If you are looking for QUICK and EASY then try OXPHO-blue

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A. J. Palik
  
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DHVidrine
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Re: Bluing
Reply #3 - yesterday at 8:00pm
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The best bluing for the home gunsmith is the slow rust bluing process.
  

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Babydriver
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Re: Bluing
Reply #4 - yesterday at 8:51pm
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Thanks to the two members who gave answers to a difficult question. I was at a loss for what to include in the question. To the other one boo.
  
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ssdave
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Re: Bluing
Reply #5 - yesterday at 10:08pm
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Well, might as well make it a 3 way split decision.

The best blue is a caustic hot blue, over a meticulous hand prep, no buffing.  

So, you now have the same choices you had before you asked the question.

1) Cold blue
2) Home craftsman slow rust blue
3) Professional hot caustic blue.

All 3 have their place.  The real question to ask is "what would you recommend, in my circumstances?"  After you described what you are trying to blue, what you want it to look like when done, and what your skills and resources are.  Then, we could put together a meaningful recommendation.


I'll make a stab at the 3 options, presuming you're wanting to blue a rifle.  

Cold blue it if you just want it to be vaguely gun finish like, and want to do it the easiest and cheapest way possible.  Follow that up with a linseed oil finish and some wax and it will last for awhile with some careful care.  Expect to invest about $15 in the process.  Oxpho blue is generally recommended as the best, but I'm not sold on that, a lot of that is loyalty to the old Brownells and their good instructions that they included with the solution.

Slow rust blue it at home yourself if you have the skills to clean up the metal finish yourself and take it to a perfect 400 grit finish.  Know that you will have to make a steam pipe to convert the rust to blue, and will have to commit 2 to 3 days to the process, an hour at a time, 3 to 4 times a day.  Expect to invest about $50 to $150 in the process, depending on how much of the steam apparatus you have and/or scavenge.  If you're meticulous, you can easily equal the best professional work after 2 or 3 projects.  You're first one will come out okay, if you don't hesitate to refinish and start over if it gets botched up.

Send it out to a professional to either rust blue or caustic hot blue it if you don't have the skills, space and patience to do a slow rust blue yourself.

If you just want it to be durable and blued, send it to a buff and blue place and let them do their magic for $200 or less.  Or add another $100 to $150 for a decent hand polish.

If you want it to be a show piece and highly durable, send it to someone who will meticulously hand polish it and take the time to rust blue it well, with about 8 to 12 passes.  Expect $250 to $600, depending on complexity.

  
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GT
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Re: Bluing
Reply #6 - yesterday at 10:45pm
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Here's some of the processes I've used, some require more $$ and effort.  I've settled on the Easy button as mentioned.   Occasionally I had a student that wanted to try some of old ways and used some of the recipes from R.H. Angier book, more often than not, lots of effort and mediocre results...

Damp cabinet, a bowl of nitric in the bottom, card and steam frequently, lots of work, lots of time.   

The EASY button... Mark Lee's brown or bluing solution.  A dozen of my students have used this on their builds, I've done several of my own with it, it really does do a quality job with a lot less hassle.  Follow the instructions to the letter, no short cuts or getting lazy, or thinking you have a better idea, that's where most issues arise.  If you have issues with it, go back and confirm your process, 90% of the time you've missed the mark -pun intended.
   
Simple household equipment -  A boiler - I use a porcelain canning pot on a propane burner like the one used for the TG turkey.  A piece of 3" PVC pipe with a cap, a box of the vintage Spic and Span (I prefer the stuff with TSP - I see Mark is recommending Simple Green now), always use distilled water, clean and dry your steel wool or Scotchbrite with acetone before you start. Some new clean cotton gloves (cleaned with the TSP solution and rinsed), and wire, also cleaned before using...   
 
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Small piece work, Brownells Nitre blue, again you'll need some equipment.  It looks to be out of stock at Brownells.

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If you want a very durable modern looking finish, Brownells oxynate no.7 hot caustic salts ( there are some hazard risks).  You'll spend $$ on tanks and gear, you'll need a dedicated place to do it.   

For blacking stainless, Brownells Oxynate no. 84. Similar equipment as the no.7  it's a hazardous material also but it works.


Been down all of these slopes, as mentioned for touch up - oxpho-blue.  Don't try to do an entire rifle with this, it'll frustrate oneself.

I've used Pilkingtons rust blue, it's not a favorite as a damp cabinet gives the best results.  There's quite a bit of effort that goes into it, but it will make barrels on doubles match the color of an action so in some places, it's required.
 
Hope this 5¢ worth of info helps...

GT
  

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GT
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Re: Bluing
Reply #7 - yesterday at 10:48pm
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Dave,
Looks like we were both responding, good info too.
Greg
  

"To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk"  T. A. Edison
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wyoold
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Re: Bluing
Reply #8 - yesterday at 11:12pm
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Herters' blue - Have had good luck with this quick rust blue (not especially quick, usually takes 3 to 6 passes to get a good job).  Any results depend on metal prep such as pitting removal, degreasing, etc.  Minimal equipment needed. Just a trough to boil water in. wyoold
  
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Old-Win
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Re: Bluing
Reply #9 - Today at 12:21am
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Machine or Carbonia bluing.
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Bluing
Reply #10 - Today at 10:26am
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I've actually had very good results with Oxpho Blue and been using it on certain projects for over 30 years. It's rarely as durable or as dark as rust bluing, but occasionally it comes out just as nice as rust bluing. And some barrels I've done 20 years ago still look great. I do as Dave mentioned and after neutralizing the finished metal I polish with oil and 4/0 steel wool, then wax the finish.
I did this Hepburn barrel about 10 years ago:
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And this Trapdoor a few years back:
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Sure shot
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Re: Bluing
Reply #11 - Today at 11:36am
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I've used Brownell's dircropan IM with good results.  It's a hot water blue similar to using the Herters blue as mentioned above. It's a fast rust blue by boiling and applying the product and carding with steel wool multiple times. Relatively durable, maybe not as durable as hot salt bluing, but almost.
  
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